Everything You NEED To KNOW To TRAIN Your DOG!

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hey everyone nate shomer here and in today’s video i’m going to break down the science you need to know to teach your dog any command first we must understand that everything our dogs do is based on motivation they’re either motivated to access something pleasant they’re motivated to prevent something unpleasant or the behavior itself is fun this is what’s known as a self-reinforcing behavior next is understanding timing when our dogs do a behavior we have one second to let them know if we would like them to repeat that behavior or one second to let them know if we would not like them to repeat that behavior let’s say we ask our dog to sit the moment the dog’s butt hits the ground the timer starts within that first second we have to either give the dog the primary reinforcer which is food toy or affection or we can give the dog the condition reinforcer also known as a marker which is a sound such as a click or the word yes that predicts a reward if we use a condition reinforcer we must pay our dogs with the primary this is the same as money for humans money is only valuable because it always predicts a primary our markers to our dogs will only be valuable if they always predict the primary each word only has value to our dogs based on what that word predicts this comes from the studies that were conducted by pavlov he found that if the same sound always preceded a reward the dogs would eventually begin to salivate when they heard that sound before the food was present this is what he called classical conditioning also known as the dinner bell theory however if the sound came while the food was being delivered yes three or if the sound came while the dogs were eating yes free they would never become classically conditioned we have to keep this in mind when we are conditioning our dogs to our markers again also known as condition reinforcers we make the sound then we deliver the reward after enough repetitions your dogs will become conditioned to the sound and you will then be able to use this in your training so let’s go back to the sit if you give your dog the primary within the first second then you have effectively shown your dog that it’s a behavior that you would like but what if you use the condition reinforcer how long would you have to deliver the primary before you lost the connection well you have as long as a dog is paying attention such as in this video you can see i give my dog ari the sick command the moment her butt hits the ground i say the yes marker then i start to walk towards my dog grabbing a treat and handing it to her and you can see she’s focused on me the entire time and now even though that reward came way after the behavior i was trying to capture my dog knows whatever she was doing when she heard the sound is what she’s being rewarded for once we understand this then we are ready to put it all together let’s picture the four steps on a timeline the first step is the command this can be physical or a verbal command the second is the motivation this is the physical cue that gets the dog to do the behavior the third step is to either mark or reward if you use the primary in this step then the process is complete if you use the marker then you must move on to the last step which is giving your dog the primary reward now when teaching this process to a dog we must start at the end and work our way forward first we must find a treat that our dog enjoys then we have to condition our dogs to the markers as explained earlier this is known as loading the markers and it’s also known as engagement training next we have to show our dogs what we would like them to perform with a physical cue it doesn’t matter if you’re teaching a sit or something more complicated like ringing a bell you must first find a way to get the dog to do the behavior every time with the physical cue once you’ve completed that step then you can move on to the last step which is giving the behavior a command remember the command can be verbal or it could be physical as you can see on the timeline you can now give the command follow it with the physical cue then the reward or marker and finally the reward if you use the marker now you will repeat this process as many times as it takes for your dog to do the behavior on the command alone so you deliver the command and before you’re even able to give the dog the physical cue they are already doing the behavior now it doesn’t matter if you’re training for competition obedience basic obedience or anything in between the process is always the same and if you can understand the science you can master the art today we are talking about markers this is probably one of the most important things when it comes to training and working with our dogs now a marker is a condition reinforcer it has been conditioned to be reinforcing now we call it a marker because it signifies that we are marking a moment in time when our dogs are right or wrong and we use markers because it’s been scientifically proven that we have approximately one second give or take depending on the dog to let them know when they’re doing a behavior we’re trying to capture whether or not it’s something we would like them to repeat or it’s something we would not like them to repeat and in order for a marker to be a marker it must predict one of the four quadrants of opera conditioning now what are the four quadrants of opera conditioning well it’s positive reinforcement negative reinforcement positive punishment and negative punishment now this is what helps us create what’s known as an opera dog and that is a dog that understands that their behavior has an effect on their environment so the dog starts to understand that they can make good things happen as well as bad things happen and when we train a dog this way we create an incredibly confident motivated dog that knows how to navigate within our world in ways that other dogs don’t so first we have to condition our dog to the markers but before we do that i want to explain what each one of the four quadrants are very quickly this often confuses people because they think positive means good and negative means bad well that’s not what we’re talking about when we are using positive or negative reinforcement positive or negative punishment but instead positive means adding to the equation whereas negative means taking away reinforcement means encouraging a behavior to be repeated and punishment means preventing a behavior from being repeated so positive reinforcement anything we add to the equation to reinforce a behavior to get the repeat of a behavior if we tell our dog good boy or good girl we give them a treat a toy we pet them anything we add that they see as valuable in order to get them to repeat a behavior so then what’s negative reinforcement negative reinforcement is not what you think it’s not a punishment it’s not a correction remember reinforcement means encouraging a behavior to be repeated so negative reinforcement we take something away to reinforce a behavior this means when we turn on pressure this is used when we use leash pressure training with our dogs but we turn pressure on and when the dog complies we turn the pressure off that’s the negative if you’ve ever taken your hand and pushed it on your dog’s rear end to get your dog to sit and your dog sits and you remove your hand you just implemented negative reinforcement if you’ve taken your hands and pushed down on your dog’s shoulder blades to give them a little bit of guidance to go into the down and your dog goes into a down and you remove your hand you just use negative reinforcement if you’ve done leash pressure training negative reinforcement if you taught your dog the healing stick negative reinforcement again we turn on pressure when they comply whatever that pressure is is removed now we have positive punishment another one that confuses people because they think how can a punishment be positive again adding to the equation so anytime we add to the equation to eliminate a behavior we’re implementing positive punishment if you yell at your dog not recommended but that’s a version a leash pop on a training collar a remote training collar uh if you squirted your dog with a water bottle and your dog doesn’t like being squirted with a water bottle anything we add these are all examples of positive punishment now if i’m going to use positive punishment on my dogs while training i use a leash and a training collar i always use training collars and never my hands the reason for this is anytime our hands start to go towards our dogs it should mean something good we’re adding some sort of value not causing any sort of pain or discomfort so hands as corrections not a good idea no knife handing or heel kicking dogs we use a leash and a training collar because again anytime your hand goes towards your dog your dog should be happy because it means they’re either going to receive a treat they’re going to be pet or a toy something of value so positive punishment adding something to eliminate a behavior negative punishment all you probably use this on your dogs this is when we take something of value away if you’re petting your dog and your dog jumps up and you stop petting you just implemented negative punishment if you ask your dog to sit and your dog downs instead and you don’t give your dog the treat you just implemented negative punishment so now with all that being said i like to have a word or sound that predicts each one of those so then we can use those to clearly and effectively communicate with our dogs now we have two that predict positive reinforcement and this often confuses people as well so we have one it’s known as a continuation marker and one that’s known as a terminal marker now the continuation marker easiest way to remember this is our words or our sounds mean to our dogs what they predict so a continuation marker i use the word yes if you’ve watched my videos when i tell a dog yes that just means they’re going to get a reward it just means here comes the reward you did the behavior correctly but it doesn’t change the dog’s circumstances so if i have a dog in a stay they must maintain the stay if i have a dog free from a stay they remain free from the stay my continuation marker or my word yes just means a reward then we have the terminal marker the terminal marker guarantees release and reward so if i’m working with my dog and i have my dog in a state position and i use the terminal marker my dog is released from that stay and they can come and get access to the reward so the only time it really matters which marker we’re using if we want to reinforce a behavior by giving the dog a reward for something they did it doesn’t matter unless we are working a stay so if you’re not working any sort of stay you can use either marker and it’s completely fine it only matters when we start to work to stay and we want either the dog to maintain the position so we can give them a reward or we would like to release them and give them a reward now we also have a marker that predicts negative reinforcement this is going to be our leash pressure i use the word wrong i do this because it gives me an opportunity to show my dog what i want them to do in any given situation without having to implement any sort of positive punishment i use this when i’m teaching the state i use it to reinforce behaviors i use this when i’m teaching boundaries or certain things i don’t want the dog to do for example the dog breaks the stay i say one wrong that pinpoints the moment in time the dog made the mistake i go back i use the leash and i place the dog back into the stay position and i do that with all my stays or if i have a dog that’s entering maybe the room that we don’t want them to be in if you have a new infant or your office or the kitchen the dog walks into the kitchen we say wrong pinpointing the moment in time the dog was incorrect and we guide the dog out of the kitchen using leash pressure negative reinforcement not a punishment this shows our dog if you hear us say the word wrong or whatever word we choose then you need to stop what you’re doing or go back into the previous position and then we continue to do this up until our dog knows what’s expected of them and they know how to turn off pressure by complying and we become the pressure when we’re reinforcing specific behaviors once we get to that point then we can use positive punishment the word that i like to use for that is the word no so i say no before i give my dog a correction so if i’m using a leash on a martingale and i’m doing a leash pop my dog does something i don’t like let’s say my dog is chewing on the furniture no correction my dog stops chewing on the furniture good boy or good girl whatever the case is so no means you’re going to receive a correction so we can pinpoint a moment in time if our dog’s doing something that is not allowed and we can follow it up with the correction and then we have a marker that predicts negative punishment this is known as a non-reinforcement marker this just means our dog made a mistake they’re not going to receive the reward but they could try again for example you tell your dog to sit your dog lays down instead you go uh-uh pinpointing the moment in time your dog made the mistake you repeat the command sit your dog sits yes reward and your dog goes that’s what gets me to the reward and we do this when our dogs are making mistakes now when we’re conditioning our dog to the markers it’s very important that the marker precedes whatever the quadrant that we’re using it’s supposed to predict so if i say yes then that’s supposed to predict a treat if i say free that predicts a treat and release that’s my terminal marker if i say wrong that predicts leash pressure no that predicts a correction when we are first getting our dog’s condition to the sounds and this comes from the studies conducted by ivan pavlov he had a tone that would go off prior to the food being delivered to the dogs after a certain amount of repetitions when the dogs heard the tone they would begin to salivate before the food is present that’s what he called classical conditioning but if you think about it he just renamed a word and that word is predictability because if the sound went up while the food was being delivered or if the sound went off while the dogs were eating they never became classically conditioned to the sound the sound has to precede the delivery of the reward or whatever one we’re using out of those four quadrants by about a half second or so now this is another thing that gets people uh struggling with teaching their dog the markers and the reason why is they say the marker and they want to get the reward to the dog within a second when we are conditioning our dogs to the markers all we have to do is start to move as long as the dog’s watching us start to move within a second of saying the marker so let’s say you’re the dog and i’m trying to get you conditioned to the word yes i say yes once i finish saying yes on the timeline that’s when the second starts and i have that entire second before i have to start moving not before i have to get you the reward so i can go yes and then start to move i like to give myself a pause about a half second pause now remember a second is way longer than what most of us think one mississippi two mississippi three mississippi four mississippi one second is a good amount of time so we say the marker and then we have to start moving within a second we don’t have to get the reward to the dog within a second we just have to start moving so if i say yes boom i made it i made it within the one second the dog knows the treats coming boom we made the connection same thing with the terminal marker we save free or whatever word you’re choosing half second pause then we move back encouraging the dog to come get the reward same thing with our wrong wrong then leash pressure no then the correction and we continue to do this up until our dog’s conditioned once they’re conditioned now we can use it at any point in time and the most effective way to use it is to say the marker whether it’s one that predicts something that we would like the dog to repeat a behavior such as yes or free or if we’re using a marker such as no to stop a behavior we don’t want all we have to be able to do is say the marker within a second of the dog doing the behavior we’re trying to capture so your dog let’s say bites the carpet decides that it’s a good idea to bite the carpet you look over you see your dog bite the carpet if your dog stops biting the carpet and more than a second goes by you’ve missed your opportunity because now your dog’s on to something new but you do have a whole second so you see your dog bite the carpet you go no the dog goes oops i messed up i’m not supposed to do that and then we walk over and we can follow up with the correction same thing with our rewards if i have a dog 30 feet away from me and i tell that dog to sit and the moment that dog’s butt hits the ground i say yes pinpointing the moment in time when the dog was correct now i start to walk to the dog and the dog’s going oh i did it right here comes that treat oh i’m getting paid and we give him the reward we made the connection so keep this in mind once your dog is conditioned to the markers you have as long as your dog is paying attention in order to get them the primary reinforcer so this is a good amount of time when we get our dog’s condition to the marker doesn’t mean it just gives us one extra second that wouldn’t be very valuable it gives us as long as a dog is paying attention so it could be 30 seconds it could be two minutes three minutes as long as the dog is maintaining focus and they know the reward is coming to the corrections coming you’re going to be able to make the connection and this is going to make your training significantly easier and there’s all kinds of different scenarios where markers are so valuable if you’re teaching your dog a new behavior if you’re trying to teach your dog boundaries if you’re trying to show your dog how to behave properly out in public these are going to be the tools the foundation that’s going to help you achieve your dog training goals and give your dog a new level of freedom because your dog is so obedient and does what you need them to do and you’re able to communicate very clearly with them now when we’re conditioning our dog to the marker we’re going to be focusing on a couple things number one you want to do your best to try to make sure that your marker sound whatever word you decide to use always sounds the same it’s easy to think about how clickers were so successful number one the click always sounds the same so with your voice try to make sure your yes or your good or whatever sound you’re using sounds the same so yes yes yes not yes yes yes you don’t want to change it you want to make sure it always sounds the same i like to use two words for my markers that predict rewards i have my yes and i have my free my yes is my continuation marker my free is my terminal marker well what does that mean because this often confuses people as well easiest way to think about what a word means to a dog is what it predicts the continuation marker equals reward that’s it primary reward food toy affection so if i say yes my dog is going to get either food a toy or affection i like to reserve my markers though for food and toys that tends to be more valuable to most dogs because we pet them all the time so really food or toys and most of time in the beginning i’m using food so yes means food or reward free on the other hand the terminal marker and again you can use whatever word whatever sound you want to use for these markers that means release and reward so if i say free to a dog i’m telling the dog that’s the correct behavior you are released from that behavior and you can receive a reward there’s going to be times when you want to use both markers now we also have a release word a release word is a sound that releases the dog from the position but it doesn’t predict a reward and because of this it’s just a release sound it’s not a release marker so keep that in mind a marker is only a marker when it predicts a reward or predicts a correction so marker could predict you did a great job here’s your reward or don’t do that again no you’re going to receive a correction so it can go for good or bad the release word on the other hand just means your release so again it’s not a marker i use all done and i use break for my release words now when i’m working with the puppy i want the puppy to look up at my face in order to get the rewards this is why it’s called engagement training the more engagement the more focus you can get from your dog while training the faster they’re going to learn so the puppy is going to look up at me i’m going to say yes and then i’m going to reward the puppy once the puppy eats the food he looks at me again i’m going to save free then i’m going to move back encouraging the puppy to jump up and get the reward during the training process when i say yes i bring the reward to the dog and when i say free i move back encouraging the dog to come and get the reward that teaches them that free is release and reward now once they’re conditioned to these sounds we no longer have to move back this is another common question that i’ve had in some of my videos if your dog is conditioned to the word free and let’s say you tell your dog to down once you lure your dog into the down position you say free you can hand the food directly to your dog while they’re still in the down you don’t have to make them jump up to get the reward as long as they’re conditioned at that point and they understand that it means releasing rewards so you can hand them the food and they can jump up so now what applications or what value is there to having these two markers well the continuation marker is often called the continuation marker because if you’re working on a stay sit stay down stay climb stay whatever it is you use the continuation marker because you’re telling your dog that’s correct i’m going to give you a reward but i’m not releasing you it just means you’re getting a reward so you’re able to reward the dog multiple times for doing a long stay when you’re first teaching them that stay command the terminal marker is very valuable for a few reasons as well number one if you’re not ready to reinforce the stay then you use the terminal marker so if i’m starting to teach a dog the verbal command and i say down and that dog lays down and i don’t want to reinforce a down stay then i’m going to use my terminal marker free i’m letting the dog know that’s correct you don’t have to stay there you can jump up and get the reward so it helps when we’re not wanting or not ready to reinforce the stay another reason that makes the terminal marker so valuable and why i use it so much in the beginning is because it also teaches the dog the faster they get into the position that i’m asking them to perform the faster they get to jump up and get the reward and they tend to do it more quickly speed for our dogs is based on motivation and this really helps increase our dog’s speed now when teaching these markers we have to make sure that there is a pause in between the sound and the delivery of the reward so the very first thing i’m going to do is i’m going to take the food i’m going to show the puppy that i have the food and i’m going to hold it by my face once the puppy looks up in my face i’m going to say yes then i’m going to deliver a reward in the beginning we hold our hands by our face we know that the dog is looking at our hands because the dog knows that the food comes from our hands so we get them used to looking up at our face by holding our hands by our face after we say the sound you have one second before you have to start moving to deliver the reward meaning i say yes once i’m done saying yes i have one second before i have to start to move to deliver the reward to the dog or the puppy so i go yes and then i can start moving as long as that movement starts before the one second this is only during the process when we’re conditioning them to the markers same with the three i say three and then i have to start moving back within a second after i say free to get the dog conditioned if you wait too long then the dog’s not going to become conditioned or if you say it and you move at the exact same time they’re not going to become conditioned so if you go yes they won’t become conditioned or if you go yes and you wait too long and you reward they’re not going to become conditioned so it’s that window yes and then reward what helps a lot of people is to actually say the marker twice and then deliver the reward but say it in your head so go yes yes reward but don’t say it out loud go yes reward so in my head i’m going yes yes reward that’s usually the perfect amount of timing in order to get the dog conditioned to the reward or the marker once they’re conditioned to the marker this is another question that i ask a lot of people how long do you have to deliver the primary reinforcement to your dog after you said the marker so when you say yes how long do you have to get that reward to your dog before you lose the connection most people say one second that’s not the case if the dog is conditioned to the marker you have as long as they are paying attention so if you have your dog 30 feet away from you and you tell your dog sit and your dog sits and you say yes and your dog’s conditioned to yes and he knows he’s going to receive a reward once you say yes your dog goes i did it correctly you start walking towards your dog the dog’s going oh here comes the treat here comes the reward he sees you reach your hand into the treat bag or whatever it is that you have he sees you pull out the treat he goes there’s my treat i’m getting paid and you hand him the reward you made the connection even though that reward came way after the behavior you were capturing your dog knows whatever he or she was doing when they heard that sound is what they’re being rewarded for you’re gonna see how these markers are gonna come into play throughout the entire training process another common question that’s often asked is do i always have to give my dog a ton of rewards when training do i always need treats is this something if i start training my dog with treats am i always going to have to need treats when training no we start with treats in the beginning we start with continual reinforcement meaning we reward every single behavior but once the dog starts to do the command on the verbal alone so i say down the dog lays down without that help of the physical cue then i start to space out the rewards i have a video explaining exactly how to do that but remember dogs always need to know the with them what’s in it for me contrary to popular belief dogs don’t do things just to make us happy they do things either to access something pleasant prevent something unpleasant or the behavior it’s fun now if you teach your dog that training with you is a lot of fun and they love that then they will start to train with you just because the act of training with you is fun but in the beginning most are going to need a little bit of encouragement whether that’s with food or it’s going to be with toys i like to start with food because we can use luring we can use shaping in order to teach a bunch of different behaviors to our dog so let’s not waste any more time let’s jump right into this training session i’m going to show you exactly how you’re going to get your puppy or your dog conditioned to these markers all right so we’re going to be doing engagement training with spock here spock is a young collie puppy now remember what i talked about the sound has to come before the delivery of the reward so i get his attention i bring my hands to my face yes then i reward notice there was a slight pause between saying the marker yes and delivering the reward it has to be yes reward not the common mistake that most people do yes you see how i moved at the exact same time as i deliver the reward if he’s gonna take it it seems like he’s chewing the other piece still so again we have to make sure that we say the sound before we deliver the reward that’s the only way the dog is going to become conditioned so now i’m going to show you a quick engagement training session that i like to do with the dog so you can see what it looks like without me constantly having to communicate back to the camera alright so here we go yes good job buddy very nice free come on good boy very good oops we dropped a piece that’s okay he doesn’t know yes reward good boy very nice free movement pay attention to the pause pay attention to how i’m saying the marker it always sounds the same yes and i’m not worried about him doing any sort of commanded behavior i just want him looking up at me free and then we move back this is the first step now most dogs don’t need much beyond this when it comes to engagement training yes but if you want to go above and beyond or if you plan on doing a focus heel or competition style obedience then you want to get the dog or the puppy to understand it’s looking at your face yes and not just looking at your hands that’s getting the reward so the way that i do that is i start exact same way i would i bring the food up by my face and then i move one hand out he follows the hand when he looks back at me yes then i mark and reward and then i do the same thing with the other hand i bring that hand out i wait till he looks at me yes when he looks at me i mark and reward then i do both hands [Music] yes and then reward so that’s showing him it’s looking at my face that’s getting the reward and not just my hand all right so we’re gonna do a couple more free and then we move also notice how i change hands yes reward good very nice buddy free reward excellent good yes notice the pause again free very good now i like to continue this until the dog becomes conditioned to the marker how do we know in a dog’s condition to the marker well the same way ivan pavlov knew his dogs were conditioned to the markers that whole classical conditioning when the sound went off before the food was delivered to the dogs they would begin to salivate before the food was present and again that’s what he called classical conditioning the four most common change of behaviors i see in a dog that’s conditioned to the marker is opening their mouth salivating licking their lips or moving their paws so if i think a dog is conditioned i’ll get them in front of me let them scratch do what they got to do and then once they look at me i say the marker yes but i wouldn’t deliver the reward right away i would watch to see if there’s a change of behavior yes if i see a change of behavior i know the dog’s condition to the markers now usually i’ll do this for a day maybe two most dogs will become conditioned pretty fast to these sounds but before every training session i like to spend 15 to 30 seconds on engagement training because it gets our dogs engaged and the more engaged your dog is the faster your dog is going to learn what’s expected of them good girl yes very nice free good girl that’s very good this way that’s a 20. yes good girl free very nice so right there she wasn’t looking i messed up but it’s okay she didn’t mess up i did yes good girl free very nice good job yes excellent free also notice i’m switching hands good girl yes free very nice good girl free good come on baby very nice excellent come on sweetie drop the piece yes reward make sure you’re switching hands free movement so i’m going to use the right hand come on baby and then go back to left yes reward remember to make sure there’s always that pause don’t pair your physical with your verbal so don’t do this yes even though it looks very similar free right there i paired it so that’s the incorrect way you want to make sure the word completely leaves your mouth yes before you deliver the reward and before you move free and then movement good girl excellent yes reward good girl free moving yay very nice good come on sweet yes reward good girl free movement yes good boy free very nice yes i’ll get it buddy free good yes free yes free yes so he does the pause he moves the pause and that shows me that he understands that yes means he’s going to get a reward and he’s getting excited because he’s anticipating the tree same thing with his terminal marker free so you can see a change of behavior when i give him that marker sound and that shows me that he’s conditioned yes good boy excellent oops dropped it everybody free good very nice so he’s conditioned to it and i’m going to bring out ari next again yes reward free movement good yes reward free good girl come on yes reward free movement so now i want you to get a close-up of charlie or not charlie arie rather and you can see her change of behavior she’s also conditioned to the markers but hers is a little bit more subtle than charlie’s yes so you see she does a little bit of a movement free and with free she jumps up because she’s ready to get the reward and i often reward her free where i’ll have her jump up so it’s however you condition your dog but we want to make sure before we move on to the next step yes that our dog is conditioned to the sound you can see on that one she kind of closed her mouth a little bit yes she’s so cute free and then movement excellent yes reward good boy free come on good and i messed up there because he wasn’t looking at me when i said it yes good free movement yes free excellent job buddy gotta be guy hero yes free and that’s him offering up behaviors yes free very good buddy yes free good yes free fix shaping and free shaping this is where we’re going to get dogs to do behaviors without having to lure them or guide them into the position we want them to perform the difference is fix shaping is you have something in mind you want your dog to perform and free shaping is you don’t necessarily have something you want your dog to perform but you’re going to reward them when they do behaviors that you like you have to make sure before you do either one of these that your dog is conditioned to your markers so at fix shaping this is how a lot of trainers will get a dog to ride a skateboard they don’t have to make the dog do the skateboard they can have their training room where they work with their dog every single day one day the dog goes into the training room and there’s a skateboard in the center of the floor the dog walks over to naturally investigate the skateboard and once they touch it the trainer uses a terminal marker and the dog runs over and gets a reward and then the dog goes back to the skateboard and says what did i do that made you reward me like that and they touch the skateboard again and the trainer uses the terminal marker again the dog comes back they get another reward and then the dog goes back to the skateboard now they have both paws on the skateboard the trainer marks they come get the reward they go back they have both paws and they slide the skateboard a little bit the trainer marks the behavior the dog comes back and gets the reward and before you know it now you have a dog riding a skateboard this is the technique that i use when i’m teaching a dog scent detection i’ll have a climb command or a climb rather that i’ll reward the dog for jumping up on that climb and they’ll do that every single day and then one day they’ll jump up on there and i’ll have an empty paint bucket or maybe an empty cinder block or something that i’m using for scent detection the dog goes over and they naturally investigate the bucket by placing their nose into it once they do that i use the terminal marker they come back and get the reward then they go back and they put their nose in it again and they get the reward now they know that sticking their nose into the can is something i want them to do without actually having to force them into the can i just used something that they were naturally going to investigate as a way to teach a behavior and then that would continue on to more advanced scent detection work that’s using fixed shaping to get my dog to do certain behaviors now free shaping you don’t have anything in mind you want your dog to perform but you’re going to reward them for behaviors that you like and this is something i highly recommend to every single pet person out there this will pay dividends later on what you’re going to do is you’re going to have food in your pocket you’re not going to let your dog know that you have rewards on you and when your dog does a behavior that you like you’re going to reward them so in the morning you have your dog your dog looks up at you yes you give them a piece of food your dog sits yes you give them a piece of food your dog goes over to their bed yes you give them a piece of food you’re being very clear what you like that your dog does what behaviors does your dog perform that you like and they’re going to start to learn this and they’re going to start to actively seek out these behaviors in order to get a reward and this is really what separates the proactive dog from a reactive dog but we want our dog to understand that their behavior can drive the production of the reward and by doing free shaping you’re really going to place your dog in a position to understand this and this is going to be one of those ways in order to get your dog to do a behavior when you don’t have food on you so you tell you tell your dog to sit your dog goes you might have a reward and they sit and boom out pops a treat so i recommend doing free shaping fix shaping is something you can do if you like but free shaping is something you definitely should do to help create that proactive dog there’s different skills that you want to develop before getting into the real training with your dog what i mean is really teaching them their sit their down they’re coming a lot of those basic obedience commands that you want your dog to know there’s certain skill sets we want to develop one is going to be luring luring is where the dog will follow food that you have in your hand and you can use that to guide them into different positions wherever the nose goes the butt does the opposite so if you lift up and the dog’s nose goes up butt goes down you got the dog to do a sit you bring your food to the ground the dog lays down you bring the food to the dog’s chest the nose goes to the chest the butt pops up you guide the dog in a circle you can manipulate the dog into almost any position using this technique using luring and when we first start off doing this all i want the dog to do is to push into my hand so if i’m holding food the dog is pushing into my hand in order to get the reward once i feel them push i say yes and i release the food they push into my hand yes release making sure that the food or my hand doesn’t release the food or the food isn’t rewarded to the dog until after i say yes so it’s yes then i release yes then i release so dog is pushing into my hand yes release dog is pushing into my hand yes release okay that’s going to be the first step and then i can use luring again to teach behaviors i want them to perform and chasing chasing is using food so we’re going to use our food drive and we’re going to use our prey drive to make the training more fun and more engaging if my dog does a behavior that i like and they’re coming for the food if i cut back very quickly a lot of praise and encouragement the dog runs back to get the food it’s going to make it more fun more entertaining so i really make them chase that food and i’ll throw that in there to kind of get them more amped up and more excited about the training and i’m going to show you exactly how to teach both of these laureen all we’re going to do for that is we’re going to take the food we’re going to place it in our hand and when i place food in my hand i like to use my thumb to hold it in position instead of holding it at my fingertips and the reason for this is it creates a little valley for my puppy if he’s interested in my food instead of the sticks on the ground so it creates a little valley for him to stick his muzzle in to grab the food without biting my hands good boy okay so that’s how we’re going to want to hold the food and all luring is when we’re teaching our dog how to lure we let him push into our hand yes and when he pushes into our hand nicely yes good yes i’m gonna mark the behavior and i’m gonna reward yes good job buddy all i want him to do during the step yes is push into my hand yes good now he’s actually it’s hard to tell on the video but he’s actually pushing my hand and when my hand moves i’m marking and rewarding yes good boy nice job my little man nice job buddy all right we’ll do a couple more yes very good yes excellent yes very nice okay so that’s going to be luring and this is going to be a tool that we’re going to use to help us teach many of the other behaviors we’re going to be showing our dog the next thing i like to do is teach the dog the concept of chasing all we’re doing is we’re getting our dog our puppy to chase the toy so we’re going to be using a couple different drives we’re going to be using prey drive by creating that movement and we’re also going to be using food drive since the dog is going for food derby come here buddy come on buddy buddy buddy good boy so for this i’m going to use my terminal marker and i’m going to play a little chasing game free whoa nice job you see how he picks up a little bit of the energy good boy and then again if he comes for it i cut back really quick good boy nice job any way that i can move it away very quick to get him bouncy get him a little bit more playful and get him more engaged so he’s not as focused on all these sticks on the ground good boy come on nicely done so chasing again i’m just cutting it boom really quick getting the dog to run towards me in order to get that toy and this is what we’re going to use to make the training more fun to make it more playful the more your dog enjoys training the faster they’re going to learn so we want to make it as fun as possible especially when you’re working with a young puppy like derby here i want to start developing our power steering so what i’m going to do and my puppy’s starting to get a little tired but that’s okay we can still work with it first go back into just the luring get him to follow the food and getting his head to turn back and forth to his left side as well as to his right side all right once we have that what we’re going to do is we’re going to grab the food and we’re going to cup it in both our hands and all i’m going to do is place it up against my leg and i’m gonna pivot around yes and when he steps in the direction that i want him to go yes i’m gonna mark and reward and i’m gonna go back the other way yes good so you see by turning it makes it easier for him to pivot around his back end in order to get access to the food and this is all i’m really doing i’m just holding the food and i’m spinning yes in a circle to get him to follow the food and this is going to help when i start using this to go around the cones to guide them into different positions it’s just that power steering same thing if i have him over in the heel position i’m going to cut my hand and then i’m going to pivot around with him right there and this is going to help yes with our left about turns our right about turns and i’m giving him food pretty much the whole time but it’s just getting him used to really pushing into that hand getting that luring technique down but developing it so well that you can literally guide your dog into any position using that power steering technique power steering a little charlie here remember we want to guide first get their head kind of moving back and forth good very nice and when i say yes is when i’m giving him the reward so you guys know when yes yes good and then we’re gonna get him to pivot in place yes yes good yes very nice yes excellent yes good now that he’s doing that nicely i want to start getting him to pivot in position just using the one hand yes good boy and i can also use that pivoting in place come on buddy very nice good boy pivoting to the right as well remember doing this power steering is going to help us later with our right about turn our left about turns and our flip finish and buy finish okay so he did great that was a nice nice little session so we’re going to do the sit first wherever nose goes butt does the opposite so we take our hand we lift up yes once our pups rear end hits the ground that’s when we mark so he’s chewing his food come and be gay lift yes and reward during this step since we’re not saying the command notice i’m not telling him to sit we could also use our terminal marker so we can lift free and reward lift free and reward so again remember for him free means he’s going to get a reward and he’s released yes means he’s going to get a reward again during this step we can use either marker it’s completely up to you so i’m gonna take the food and i’m gonna lift up yes the moment her butt hits the ground i’m gonna give her the food yes good girl and i’m not worried about her staying in the position yes very nice so you see when i say yes i bring it to her let’s see how it looks when i use the terminal marker free good girl very good free excellent very nice free good girl so watch her butt when her butt hits the ground that’s when i’m staying my marker free excellent good girl again making sure you switch hands you don’t always want to use three the same hand because then your dog will focus just on that one hand hey here we go teaching the scent command we take the food in our hand we lift up free butt hits the ground we use that terminal marker and we reward the puppy free okay we can use the terminal marker if we like and now remember during this step when we’re shaping the behavior we don’t have to always use the terminal free if we don’t want to because we’re not giving the dog a verbal command there’s no verbal command so that means we’re not reinforcing the state so if i want i can lift up yes and bring it to the puppy if i choose rewarding him in position yes and he’s allowed to get up from that position because i have not said sit all right so remember what we want to do is we lift up when the butt hits the ground we’re going to use our terminal marker free free free free free free free free very good my man free free good now for the down a common mistake people make with the down is they’ll bring their hand down and as the dog tries to go for it they’ll move their hand away what you want to do is you want to go straight down and you also want to create a cave with your hand what i mean by that when i’m going down i’m doing this you can kind of see it creates a cave that our dog has to place their muzzle into and when they go down and they place their muzzle into that cave it naturally brings the rear end down so again we cup the food and we go straight down yes once the elbows hit the ground we mark and reward we can use this as an opportunity as well to bring him back up into the sit so again we go down yes then we reward we bring him back up once he finishes chewing yes into the sit so i can do some puppy push-ups right here yes make him do it down and then bring him back up to the sit yes very simple so i bring it down you see how i’m creating a cave by turning my hand the dog’s nose has to go underneath the palm of my hand in order to get to the food which makes him lay down just like she’s doing so again we go straight down yes once she gets into position we mark and we reward and right now since she’s coming back up into the set i can reward that as well yes good girl so let’s see how it looks when i get her moving around and i like to to bring my hand straight down yes good girl very nice yes excellent good when i’m working with a puppy yes i like to use meal time yes as an opportunity to train the key things you want to keep in mind is once she gets into position yes that’s what we mark the behavior i’m watching her elbows touch the ground if for some reason the dog’s back end goes up i’m gonna wait that butt goes down yes mark and reward now as i was saying before in the previous video some dogs will go down like this yes but their butt won’t go down right away so what i’ll do is i will reward them for attempting until that butt goes down then i’ll give them whatever’s left in my hand so i’m showing them i’m gonna reward you you’re putting in the effort but what we really want is we want you to lay all the way down if you have a dog with a lower level of perseverance you don’t want them to quit because they’re not getting access to that reward yes and she’s figuring this out very very quickly she’s a smart little dog yes you’re gonna see though the way that you handle the food is going to make a really big difference on how easy or how difficult it is for your dog to figure out what it is you want them to perform but this is going to be using our luring cube to get our dog to go into the down command so we’re taking the food we’re cuffing it some dogs are gonna be more challenging than others he’s very easy but some dogs are gonna have to free hold it there a little bit longer and be patient with it free free good free free free very nice free good free good boy free the next one’s going to be the stand with the stand i like to take my hand and i like to turn the cup or the bowl like if i create a bowl i turn the bowl away so then the puppy or the dog has to come around to get their muzzle inside which will naturally bring their back end up it doesn’t always work right away and he struggles a little bit with it so i’m going to help him out just by taking my hand underneath his belly scooping up his back end so i take the food bring it underneath and then i help him out yes once he pops up that back end i mark and reward so again we lift yes so i could do a sit there and then i bring this to his chest then i help yes and reward again if you’re gonna help out like i am right here make sure whatever you’re using for the lure comes first so if i have him in front of me i’m doing the lure first which he doesn’t fully know yet then i’m helping yes so again it becomes a predictable pattern he likes to pop his rear end up and shift a little bit to the side if that continues then i could use something like a shaping box or i could use a wall to prevent him from practicing that but for the demonstration purposes it’s okay again tuck to his chest help him out yes reward so that’s going to be the start of our stand command again tucking it towards her chest hoping to get her back in the pop-up yes just like that very good very good yes and i’ll reward her for the si as well it’s still early in her training yes so i’m rewarding every single behavior yeah oh yes we’ll throw it down in there as well and we’ll see if we can get her to pop back up using the food the luring oh there was a noise no big deal yes good girl it’s not going to be perfect in the beginning but we’re not worried about perfection just yet yes good girl come on baby you can do it yes good very nice so i’m not having to help her which is really good but if i was to help her if she was having a hard time and the back end wasn’t popping up i would just use my hand and just provide that little extra bit of assistance to give her more of a clear path of what i want her to do and she’s very food motivated which helps a lot yes good girl okay so he’s flopping down what you’re going to see with some dogs we want to bring them back up and i could even help a little bit with the leash come on buddy yes and then reward good so we’re going to bring them back up into the sit good rotate the hand towards the chest help him out with the leash if i need to come on buddy come on come on come on get that back end up yes then reward good job buddy yes reward okay so rotate the hand towards the chest i can help by bringing my hand under there as well so i’m not using the leash pressure then at that point bring him back up help him with the leash he’s trying to find freebies rotate the hand towards the chest help out yes reward so you can see i’m bringing my hand underneath guiding pushing his legs back to get him to stand up yes reward so sometimes it’ll even help to place your dog sideways in front of you so then you can do a sit you can bring the dog back into it down [Music] and then you can guide them right back up into the stand and all i’m doing is teaching them what each thing means and just giving them a little extra help using my left hand yes good job bring him back into the down yes and then back up into the stand and each time i say yes he’s getting a piece of food because i had a handful of food there them back into the down and this one takes a little bit of repetition especially if you’re working with a young puppy a stand is a more difficult behavior to teach so you see he did that one really nice and easily just after a couple of them he’s already starting to get it but again he’s a smart little guy so we’re gonna take another handful guide it towards the chest help him out a little bit see if he stands yes reward good job buddy let’s bring him into that sit help him out yes reward and guide him back into the stand yes reward beautiful and when i’m doing the stand what i want to do is i want to bring the food i cup it again i rotate my hand and i bring the food to the chest see how his butt popped up so cup to the chest good and once i get the dog to understand each position this is why i do stand last because i can go from a stand or i can go from a sit rather into a stand and i can go from a down into a stand by doing the same cue so tuck it in yes reward under yes reward yes reward your hand to the dog’s chest yes reward yes yes i’m waiting for that butt to pop up yes yes good yes yes good next one’s going to be heel if you’re working on precision style obedience and you’re going to do a competition heal you’re going to do a lot more than what i’m showing right now all we want for this is to show him how to find the heel position the heel position is just going to be on the left side of my body so what i want to do for that is i’m going to step back with my left leg i’m going to use my left hand to guide him into heel position once he’s in the position mark and reward so i step back there he goes swing him back and then mark and reward this is an excellent exercise to do if you want to do loose leash walking i like to get the dog or puppy i’m working with come on buddy used to going around in the heel position getting the reward and then i jump back and i get him to go back in the heel position excellent very nice i’ll go back again notice how his head goes out this way and around and in that’s the way i like to get them to find the heel position the reason for that if you take your dog come on buddy and you have him go like this into heel position then you’re not going to get that pretty flip finish that you want if you’re doing any sort of advanced obedience but even with a pet dog having a flip finish is very nice so that’s when they’re in the sit front position directly in front of you and you guide them around come on come on you can do it there we go and he’s got it and they come back into that heel position but when they fully understand it then they’ll just swing their butt around to each spot so i’m kind of helping him out but you get the idea that’s going to be the heel what i want to do is i want to step back with my left leg guide her around circle her head inward and then reward her now having your dog circle their head inward is very important for this exercise because if you circle their head outwards then that’s going to become the default movement that they do and you’re not going to have that really pretty rotation of the back end coming into heel position like that because we want when they fully understand the heel position we want them to flip their body it’s called a flip finish into the heel position so again their head comes inward i step back giving her some room and i can even reinforce the position a little bit more by walking forward and rewarding her okay guys this next step is another fun simple step all we’re going to be doing is we’re going to guide our dog into the heel position we want to give them a basic idea and understanding of how to find that heel position when we’re taking them out on a walk if you want your dog on the right side you’re going to do exactly what i’m doing you’re just going to put them on the right instead of the left so when i’m doing uh with the food i’m just going to use the luring hey focus where we’re training buddy and i’m going to guide them around stepping back with my left foot bringing them into heel position and rewarding good boy same thing i’m going to use the leash to do it i’m going to guide them around get them in the heel position mark and reward i have a video all on teaching a dog to get into this position but this is something that’s going to help when we take our dogs out for that loose leash walking so again when we’re using the food we step back with the left leg we guide our dog around once they’re in position we mark in reward when we’re using the leash very very similar we step back we guide with the leash whoa buddy and then when they get back in the heel position we mark and reward so i’m gonna do a couple just playing around having some fun showing you guys what it would look like when you’re working training with your dog it doesn’t have to be super serious and structured we want to have a good time so if i’m just doing food i’m guiding him into position boom i’m rewarding him then i’m taking off whoa bringing him back in the heel position mark and reward again i’m not worried about precision i just want him to have a good time finding that heel position so again when we’re out on the walk he’s going to look for that on his own and it’s nice to do with the leash as well so when he feels that pressure boom he knows how to get into the correct position oop that was sloppy got him around and again we want to do this a bunch of times so take the time to teach your dog how to find that heel position and make it fun make it very engaging let your dog have a good time this is going to transition over and make that loose leash walk that much easier stepping back with the left leg guiding our dog around into that heel position so she’s a little forging but that’s okay it happens yes yes the next one is the come when called so with all i do is a little bow i drop my body and i do a little bow that little bow brings the dog or the puppy directly in front of me once they get close i lift up which gets them to sit this is also known as a backwards follow exercise what’s good about this is i could walk backwards and just hand them treats the whole time so i’m gonna swing back around this way and then anytime i want to stop all i have to do is lift my hand up and this is one of the first steps to teaching a come when called again we want to mark when our puppy is doing it correctly as i’m walking backwards i could mark when he’s coming towards me there’s different times when we can mark so i could do this and go yes and give him a treat i could stop and lift yes give him a reward i could even walk backwards he’s eating the food come on and just reward him because he’s getting the primary the exact moment he’s doing it right this also comes in mind with uh reward placement notice how i’m giving him the rewards very close to my body because i want him to be close to me if you’re getting a habit of your dog sitting in front of you and you’re reaching out to give them the reward then that’s going to be the position that your dog or your puppy is looking for in order to get those rewards so we always want to reward them come here you come on i know those other dogs can be distracting we want to reward them when they’re in the position that’s not a good position we’ll try again he’s a little distracted from the neighbors dogs barking so that’s going to be our come when called when i walk backwards i’m just going to reward him up against my body so i’m just going to walk backwards he’s going to follow me and as he takes his steps i’m gonna reward him along the way good boy come on buddy nice job we can pivot around and go back and forth and then as we stop we lift up yes so they sit and then we go back into the backwards follow exercise make sure you don’t trip over your climb bed good so we continue to walk backwards continue to walk backwards rewarding our dog and then again when we stop we try to keep them nice straight and centered slowly lift up and then reward this is going to be the start of our come when call yes yes yes yes and then stop lift yes reward and then once we know that we have the dog doing that behavior and again i like to get it to where i can walk backwards and my dog is just walking directly in front of me yes it’s my body as i guide it downwards so it’s staying up against my body and that’s going to keep my dog nice and close to me and i keep it center so i can switch hands too and i start with walking backwards again this is the backwards follow exercise but this is going to lead into the come when called backwards follow yes so we’ve done sit down stand come heel now we’re going to do the climb command again climb is anything elevated when we’re teaching the climb command it’s a great opportunity to also teach the off command so what we’re going to do is take the food guide them up on top yes then reward take the food guide them off showing them that we got it come on buddy oh oh there you go yes and we’re gonna guide him back up nice job buddy good boy this is a good confidence exercise for him and back off one more time come on coming oh you can do it you can do it yay and that’s going to be the climb and the off command so i’m going to guide him onto the bed yes reward guide him off the bed watch the pause yes reward guide him on come on buddy yes reward guide him off lure him on yes reward and the same time i teach the climb i like to teach the off command so guiding him off and reward guiding him on and reward just good girl yes yes yes yes yes good yes very nice good boy buddy yes good yes good yes yes good next one is the spin all we’re going to do is we’re going to take the food and get our dog to spin in a circle you can go either way i like to only teach dogs to go counter-clockwise and the reason for that is when i have them in heel position oh you can do it i gotta remember not to give them so many pieces because it takes them a second to chew all right so when he’s in heel position i like to have him spin as a way to kind of break up heal a little bit and make it more fun for my dog so again i always get them to spin counter clockwise now you may find with a dog that doesn’t have as much perseverance they may give up halfway through if that’s the case just start small reward right there and then as he gets better reward a little farther and as he gets better you reward him the entire way so depending on your dog’s perseverance and motivation is gonna really dictate how difficult or how easy the spin is so now we did the spin again another very simple command we’re going to throw on the spin we bring the their head around making a full rotation now some of you guys if you have a dog that doesn’t have as much perseverance meaning they give up quickly you may have to reward them when they’re partially uh through the exercise so you might have to go yes and reward there you might have to go a little farther yes and reward there because you build on success and then she goes all the way around yes and then we reward her again we want to build on success if you’re trying if you do this and the dog gives up then you need to give them those wins so they know that if they continue to persevere they’ll be able to get access to the reward so we show the dog our physical cue yes yes again that’s what i can do in the heel position yes good boy next one is going to be walking backwards so i’ve never had him walk backwards yet so this is going to be a first when i have my hands open that means come to me when i close my hands that means walk away or not walk away i’m sorry walk backwards so i’ll show you how i do this i bring the food to me or the puppy and then i close and i walk towards him yes once he takes one step backwards i mark and reward i don’t have to get him to take 20 steps back just one in the beginning so we close our fist we walk towards him oh he fell if i need to help him again yes good so that took a little extra help i had to use my left hand as well yes good so he’s walking backwards now yes very nice very good buddy go ahead get that piece yes good so you see i’m just marking one maybe two steps at a time when he gets better at it we can get him to walk back way farther with less rewards so let’s try again close the fist walk towards him yes very good buddy yes excellent nicely done i could also say free googly free very nice all right another very simple one when done correctly so now all i’m going to do is i’m going to close my hand i will walk towards her yes and when i see her take those steps backwards yes i mark and i reward yes good girl so i can get her to come back to me and then let’s go ahead and get her to walk backwards again yes very nice good job harley yes good yes a common issue that people run into when they’re trying to do this exercise is the dog may try to sit down yes what she is not doing it’s making it much easier but if your dog does sit down just be patient with it and try to move your hand manipulate your hand to get the dog to do the behavior remember this is our power steering oh boy this closed walk into him yes good boy his clothes walk into him yes good yes excellent yes very nice derby come on come on you can do it oh you’re laying down yes good boy yes good yes good again we can use the terminal marker free good boy nice free good free good free excellent good job derby free very nice free good excellent and that’s a really good session with derby here and when my dog takes that jump back yes i’m gonna mark and reward yes good i can use my terminal marker too free good girl again fist closed walk into our dog free and as they get better you’re gonna be able to start getting them to walk back farther and farther hands closed and yes good hands closed walk into the dog free you can see she knows that when my hands are closed that’s when she walks backwards free good girl free free good free very nice free good boy free excellent all right so he’s doing it really nice it’s picking this up quickly free good boy free very nice charlie very nice got a little spin free good boy free excellent fist close walk into him free reward good job buddy i got more it’s okay free free free nice job bud free excellent good job hero swinging out a little bit trying to get him free to go straight and again you can always use a barrier so i’m noticing he’s swinging his butt to my right his left so i’m just gonna use the banner here free good free free very nice now we’re gonna do the center command center command is very fun dogs usually love it keep that in mind if you’re going to teach your dog the center command they do usually like it and they will offer it up sometimes when you may not be expecting it so if you have a larger dog breed keep that in mind you might be hanging out talking to your friends and then your dog comes and says hello right between your legs so the way that i do that is i keep food in both hands the food that’s in my right hand i do not give to the dog right away i give them the food that’s in the left hand when they get into the position so i’m just using this hand to guide them you’ll see what i mean so i guide him around he’s not getting that food then i switch them to my other hand now he gets the food and now i can walk and give him food from both hands i can also have him sit by lifting up so now you can see all these different skills that we’ve been able to to develop with spock here by using luring can create a very fun very engaging training session but i’m going to use that to guide him around transfer him over to my left yes reward yes reward good boy the very last one we’re gonna do is the place bowl so i’m gonna grab that real quick you can keep filming a little spock running around all right so now we have the place bowl the goal with this he hasn’t done this yet either all i want him to do is place his paws on the bowl once he places his paws on the bowl i’ll mark and reward so yes he’s so easy all right let’s get another one yes very nice very good now i can make it fun where i can go free and release him let him come and get it excellent and then let’s go back free oh good boy at first we don’t need both paws one is fine get him to do the other one three oh good boy nice job buddy we’ll do one more he’s so easy now there’s more that i like to do with this this helps teach our dog a little bit of that rear end awareness a lot of trainers also use this to help teach the flip finish i also like to use this when i’m teaching my healing sticks but this is a good starting platform just to get your puppy to place his paws on the front of the bowl we can have him jump off come on big guy go back and put his paws on the bowl you could do it there you go nice job and then i like to just get them to pivot their back end just like he’s doing now and again this is the very first time spock has done the ball here so again let’s get him to go the other way and i’m looking for that leg to turn yes or to step to the side rather get him to go the other way just by holding the food yes and you see he has to change his position if he wants to get to the food in an easier way than trying to really work for it so you see how i cup it in my hand by turning he has to turn his head which will naturally get that back end to pivot hey i’m up here let’s do one more get it a bit yes there we go so i’m gonna bring it over and let’s see we can get her to put her paws on the front of the bowl yes good girl very nice yes so she’s an easy one that’s good and i’m going to keep rewarding her for keeping her paws on there very good that’s good good girl very good you’re such a smart girl aren’t you now i’m going to have her come off because i want her to get those paws back on so we can repeat the exercise yes very nice so she’s a very easy dog to teach this to i’ve had some other dogs where they do everything in their power to avoid the bull and that could be a little bit of a struggle but she just places her paws right on it which is very cool let’s go back this way sweetie and back this way let’s get those paws on there yes good girl yes see if i can get her to maintain it yes by spacing out the markers yes very good yes excellent and if the bowl’s too small that’s going to make it more difficult so i like to use a bowl like this one this is a basic metal bowl made by kong so it has the rubber on the top and that makes it easier for the dogs to have a little bit of traction with their paws the full metal bowls are a little bit more difficult for them i know trainers that will also use horse bowls big horse balls to start out again a bigger target’s going to be a little bit easier and the horse bowls are made out of rubber as well so it’s easier for the dogs to maintain that position with their paws so let’s bring her around and get her to put her paws back on it since she’s doing so well i’m going to see if i can get her to pivot that back end so i’m gonna get her paws on there good girl very nice cupping the food in my hand and i’m gonna turn yes good girl so she’s turning her back in already very nice yes good you see that that is awesome that’s exactly what i want good girl let’s see if we can get that back in the pivot yes good girl and we’re gonna take her back the other way all right here we go you ready harley let’s see if we can go the other way don’t get too bored come on here we go here we go come on you can do it yes good girl very good come on can we get another step yes excellent again i’m just gonna guide them on i’m waiting for those paws to go onto the bowl and it helps to teach the climb command first so you can see as i said some dogs will avoid it come on buddy come on yes good job you only got one paw on there that’s all i really need for right now i’m gonna guide them back around and get them to get both paws on there come on buddy yes good so we got another paw come on bud come on come on come on you can do it give him a little bit of encouragement come on you can do it buddy yes very nice very nice good job excellent lots of rewards there let’s guide them back on i’m actually going to remove the leash so it’s not in the way i come bud good boy come on come on babe good boy come on come on come on good boy yes good good job very nice buddy so you can see he’s starting to get it come on buddy buddy good boy let’s get them to do it again come on you can do it little man and each dog is going to be a little different come on come on buddy i’m giving him a piece here and there just because i don’t want him to get discouraged yes good boy he’s doing really nice yes reward and i’m also going to use the pivoting that i did before to get him to pivot his rear end on the bolt yes good so that power steering is already coming into play and it’s good to get our dog to be able to pivot their back in again both directions come on buddy the only difference from the power steering is we’re having him keep his paws on the bowl come on yes good i can help him a little bit yes yes good good job buddy now i’m gonna get him to place his paw on the bowl and i’m going to use a terminal marker free good boy nice job little buddy let’s get him to come back good boy come on come on come on free very nice very nice so he’s already getting it good boy come on oh you dropped it little man come on buddy come on you can do it come on patience is key with this come on bud i’m gonna get one more good one because he’s getting tired come on free very nice good job girl boy you did it it’s been quite a while since i’ve done this exercise with her but you’ll see once they have it they’ll retain it for a long time yes and she’s already offering it up and that’s part of that proactive dog training that we talked about before place so she knows to walk right on it and again if i pivot she’s gonna pivot with me and stay in that sit front position i can try to go back the other way her other direction is not as good come on baby there we go yes and the reason why is because with her i mostly did the left pivot because i would use this bowl heel to work on that flip finish sit so i can place my dog nose sit place her into a position and then call her heel and the heel and you can see she uses the bowl as a platform to pivot on this is also a great target location heel if i call her into heel position i can send her place to go onto the place command and again even after not doing this exercise for a long time free she’s still really really good at it if you imprint your dog correctly that first 16 weeks place so she went for the center place help rod a little bit then it really sticks with them for life again we teach them by placing their paws on it we reward it so free i’m gonna show you like when a dog starts to learn it what it will look like so she places free and then i reward place i cure free then reward place free very nice place and then once we have that place stay again we start to pivot around getting our dog to pivot that back end nicely and i’m going to show you her doing this behavior right now when she was a young puppy as well so you can see how it looks and how they can advance yes yes hurry yes good girl yes good girl yes so you can see very simple very fun training and during this step remember you’re not worried about saying the command present the physical cue that can get your dog or your puppy to do the behavior every single time without fail once you have it at that point then you can move on to the next step which is placing the behavior on a command and a command can be physical or verbal as long as it precedes the physical cue because then it becomes a predictable pattern and our dog’s able to learn so if you’re training a new puppy or if you’re following along you have an older dog start with this get your dog get your puppy to do all the behaviors that you like by using that technique of luring you’re going to start with continual reinforcement you’re rewarding every single behavior but once your dog starts to do the behaviors on the command alone that’ll give you an opportunity to start spacing out your rewards so you don’t have to give a treat for every little behavior but we like to start that way but i want you guys to see what a training exercise might look like with a brand new young pup so he’s over here trying to get into the bag of food come here big guy come in yay good boy and so with him he’s following my hand already really nicely so i can start luring him into different positions when i’m luring a dog into positions i’m not saying the position that i want the dog to perform i’m simply showing the dog a physical cue and in this case we’re using the food to get them to do the behavior the moment they do the behavior i can mark and reward here’s another thing to keep in mind when we’re doing luring we have to let oh is this a little high for you is it a little high come on you could do it oh oh he climbed up and didn’t realize how high he was let’s help him out here we go oh there you go you did it little super dog nice work when we’re using luring so if i lift up watch his butt hits the ground i can give him that food within a second of him completing the behavior same thing with the down any command that i’m trying to get him to perform come on buddy by using luring we can just give him the reward once he’s in the position and we make the connection however it is good to practice always using those markers so it would look like this yes reward and since he’s not in a commanded position yes during this step i could use yes or i could use free free good job if i want him to come to me come on buddy buddy buddy buddy very nice yes oh there you go yes very nice get him to come into heel position but this is how i would do an early session with this guy because right now he’s not ready for commands but he’s good with the markers and he’s good at following food so i can start showing him all these cool little things i can get him to do with luring now what i recommend before putting any sort of command on a command like before you say down make sure you can get your dog to do the command with that physical cue the way that you like every single time and once you have that perfect picture then you can move to naming a commander putting the behavior on a command so for this next week all i’m mostly going to be doing with this little guy is engagement training and teaching him how to get from one position to the next using that concept of luring i’m also going to show him a few other things but it’s all basically going to be luring so if you’re starting and you’re working with your puppy right now or a brand new dog start doing this take your time don’t rush it get it to where it feels like a dance where you start to do something boom your dog already knows what you want him to do because you guys are so in sync with each other with the training and it makes everything go so much more smoothly clear communication is one of the most important aspects when it comes to training a dog last week we introduced spock to luring which is implementing positive reinforcement and this week we will be teaching him leash pressure this is incredibly important and we can use it for so many different things such as teaching behaviors preventing bad behaviors and reinforcing good behaviors such as our stay command this is so important to dog training it’s like catching to football it’s pretty important so i’m going to show you guys every little step so you can teach your dog leash pressure and do in a way that’s not only effective but also fun [Music] leash pressure is implementing negative reinforcement now when we’re using negative reinforcement the two most important things you have to keep in mind number one once the pressure is turned on it cannot be turned off until your dog complies and number two the moment your dog complies you have to instantly turn that pressure off your dog has to know and understand that it’s the act of going into the position is what turns the pressure off and if you keep the pressure on after your dog has done what you wanted then they’re not going to know what they need to do to get that pressure to turn off it’s very important last week we taught spock luring the concept of following food to get into a desired position you want to make sure your dog understands luring before doing this step it makes it much easier and the way we’re going to do this is i’m going to start at his level because i don’t want to put a lot of extra pressure on him and sometimes as the human being much taller and much larger we can add a lot of pressure when we’re standing over our dogs like this so at first i like to get down to the dog’s level i also like to teach the dog to move forward that’s the easiest one for most dogs to do and a lot of dogs won’t even need the help with the food if you do have to help with the food make sure the pressure comes first then after the pressure is applied help your dog figure out what you want with the food when your dog understands the concept they’ll move and follow the leash without that extra help that you’re providing in the very beginning when you’re teaching your dog this process so i’m going to start by pulling forward boom there’s the pressure now i help with the food good boy once he starts to move towards it come on buddy you don’t want to jump off the platform you can do it there come on come on come on i know it’s so high yes and then i mark and reward i got him back this way there’s a yes good back this way yes so now you see he’s just following the leash yes and that’s what we want it’s following the leash yes good so now that he’s doing this really nicely i’m going to guide him back onto the platform come on buddy yes good job notice how each time when he gets into the position i turn off the pressure now we’re going to do some puppy push-ups we’re going to go down up down up down up a few times till he understands this concept remember the pressure comes first i like to keep my hand behind my back that has the treats because i don’t want to accidentally move at the same time if you make this mistake of moving the leash the same time you’re luring with the food then your dog’s not going to learn the leash pressure and of course we’re trying to teach the least pressure so we’re going to start to slowly lift up there’s the pressure just enough for a little spock to feel it then we’re going to help with the food once he gets into the position you can mark and reward we’re going to start the pressure again there it is help with the food yes reward pressure is turned off the moment he complies we start to lift up there’s the pressure help with the food yes and i will continue to do this until i do the pressure and he goes into the position without the extra help of the food so we start the pressure first then we assist with the food yes reward if you have a dog that already knows sitting down and knows these commands but you want to teach your dog leash pressure you can replace the food with the actual command meaning you could go like this you could add the pressure and then you could say sit so your dog would sit and then you could turn off the pressure the concept is the same we’re teaching him one thing by using something he already knows to make the training or the learning process significantly easier so we’re gonna try it again looking beautiful he did that one on his own i’m gonna show you what it looks like if i was just training him on my own yes good job buddy very nice yes excellent good job very good yes good boy very nice yes good so again you can see that i apply the pressure then i help then i release the pressure then i mark then i reward and i add some praise so it should be a fun exercise when your dog gets more comfortable with you doing this exercise at his level or her level then you can go ahead and stand up now that he understands what we’re doing i can start showing him a slightly different picture i also like to use my foot if you guys have been following my videos you may have seen this in some of my past videos but i’ll bring my foot up apply the pressure make sure you have good balance for this and then i help with the food i like to use my foot so i don’t have to bend over a bunch of times when i’m first teaching a dog this concept of leash pressure so we’re going to go ahead and lift up sometimes we can talk to them to help motivate them so i can go come on spock come mark and then reward we’ll do another one where we use our foot bring your foot up nice and slow let your dog see it and then yes good boy so that one he did without the help of the lure and that’s what we want so we’re going to do another one we’re going to go ahead and lift up oh oh you’re thinking about it come on big guy you can do it yes well we don’t want to give him that that’s not a treat here we go that’s a treat very nice and we’re gonna do the leash pressure again with the foot yes so he’s figuring it out very fast he’s also a very smart intelligent dog and he’s learning faster than some other dogs would so with your dog be patient don’t try to compare your dog’s speed at learning or understanding of the concept with spock here your dog may figure it out faster your dog may take a little bit longer whatever the case is base the training on your own dog that’s a common question that’s often asked how long should it take well it depends on your dog it depends on your timing it depends on the reward there’s a lot of variables so just be patient with it and have a lot of fun now what can we use this for we can use it for teaching commands let me give you an example so i can tell spock sit then i can help him with the leash pressure yes mark and reward i can use it to reinforce a stay so now if he’s in a stay if he was go if he was to break this position i could easily bring him back into the position showing him whoa let’s get back up here that was tough we’ll we’ll consider that a uh a fluke or whatever i don’t know okay so he’s sitting we bring him back up good so we can he wants to go into the down position come on buddy and we can give him that command down and then use the leash pressure yes reward sit use the leash pressure free good down use the leash pressure and he’s still not that good with the leash pressure yet so i would wait till the way that i like to do it is i like a dog to understand this concept so much that i can’t even make the leash tight meaning i start to do this and the dog’s already sitting i start to lift up my foot boom and the dog’s already laying down that’s when i really start to incorporate it but like i said i can also use this to not only teach behaviors not only teach to stay help us with walking on a loose leash but also gives us the opportunity to show our dog what they’re not allowed to do without having to give them a correction right away and what i mean by that let’s say i have a dog that jumps up on people all the time so i have the leash on them it’s nice and loose i tell my friend let’s say you’re my friend i say okay you’re gonna pet my puppy but if my puppy jumps up all i want you to do is stop petting the moment you stop petting and he jumps up i’m going to say wrong then i’m going to apply leash pressure once all four paws are back on the ground then you’re gonna go back to petting him and what we’re doing with this is we’re using negative punishment which is removal of the reward we’re using positive reinforcement by petting him when he does it correctly and we’re using negative reinforcement to reinforce what we want by applying that leash pressure first we teach the dog that the behavior is not allowed by using our marker that predicts negative reinforcement this would be the word wrong for the dogs that i train then we would use the leash cue to show the dog what we would like them to do so wrong to the dog become stop what you’re doing or go back to the previous position this is why this marker and leash pressure training is so valuable we can give our dogs proper directions without having to correct them let me give you a few examples the dog goes into a room that they’re not supposed to go into i would say wrong and then i would use the leash pressure to cue them out of the room i would do the same thing for jumping on furniture jumping on people rushing out of the crate or the front door or the car and then we would use the leash pressure to either stop what they are doing or make them go back to the previous location a little derby here i have the leash and again you’re going to see that i’m going to pull in a straight line and i have food in my hand as well so i’m going to start to pull free and then i’m going to reward i’m gonna pull free and see how he’s starting to follow the leash free good boy excellent work my man free and now i’m not even applying pressure he’s just following it free good boy this is a smart dog though golden retrievers free are usually really smart so you see i’m applying pressure free and he’s just following it so he’s doing great free that’s what i want and you also when you’re implementing this technique you want your dog if they’re paying attention to be able to avoid the pressure entirely i don’t want to just pull really quick not giving him an opportunity to avoid the pressure i want to start slow free so if he follows it he’s able free to avoid that pressure and that’s very important so now i’m going to do this sit so what i want to do is i want to help him with the food but i’m going to lift up a little bit so there’s the pressure and that pressure needs to stay until he puts his butt down it shouldn’t be so hard that you’re choking the dog it should be just enough that he feels it so you can see he’s still able to smell the ground and kind of look around i just want him to feel a little bit of pressure so now i’m going to help him with the food by lifting up he puts his butt down i turn the pressure off and i give him a piece of food i’m gonna encourage him to come forward free and i’m gonna reward take the pressure lift up then help with the food he puts his butt down [Music] free and then i reward good boy nice job remember pressure must come first pressure first then the food free then the reward so you see pressure’s turned off oops i mean pressure’s turned on and then once he complies the pressure’s turned off so here we go again i lift up and he’s starting to get it already free good boy that’s a good job my new man that’s a good job so again i’m gonna lift up i’m gonna help him with the food free good boy good boy and if i want i can even throw in some of that chase scene that we talked about before come everybody so again pressure free good boy good job get a little bit of that bounce some of that puppy energy there’s the pressure let’s lift up free good boy and i want to continue to do this until it’s almost impossible for me to make that leash tight because my dog is so engaged and so focused right now he’s distracted and that’s going to happen with puppies but you’re going to see as they become more involved with the training they start to enjoy it a little bit more they start to understand it more you’re going to get more and more engagement so here’s the pressure here’s the food free reward good job buddy pressure food free reward nice work little man nice work nice work pressure food free reward excellent good boy that’s a good boy again pressure free so that one i didn’t even need to use the food pressure food free good so he’s starting to get it there’s the pressure free very nice give him a little kiss he’s doing good free good boy so you see he’s really starting free he’s really starting to get it now once i have him at that point then i want to start doing the pressure into the down but i want to make it comfortable so what i’m going to do is i’m going to place him on the climb bed here guiding him with the leash and i’m going to get down at his level when i first do this exercise with a dog i like to be at their level because i want to i want to alleviate as much pressure as possible contrary to popular belief it’s not about being the alpha it’s not about dominating your dog take all that stuff that you’ve heard before throw it out the window we’re working with our dog together on the same team we’re on a team right now and i’m helping him and i’m trying to communicate with him as effectively as possible i’m not trying to dominate him so what i’m going to do we got a helicopter in the background so what i’m going to do here he laid down i’m going to bring him back up right so i’m going to use the technique to bring him up good he came up so i’m gonna reward him now i’m gonna do the pressure downwards so there’s the pressure downwards same thing as the sit it’s slow steady pressure i can help him with the food free and then reward okay i’m gonna bring him back up help him with the food free reward pressure goes down free so he’s starting to do it he’s doing really well we can even get a little bit of a close-up so you can guys can see what’s going on here and all i’m doing is i’m slowly going to bring up the leash he feels the pressure then the food comes remember predictability pressure is predicting food so then pressure is not stressful pressure becomes something the dog enjoys pressure goes down food goes down and then we reward again pressure goes up food goes up he does the behavior he gets the treat pressure goes down oh chew your food big man he lays down i’m gonna give him that reward and then the next one and that’s gonna happen when you train your puppy sometimes puppies and dogs rather get the food in their stomach than chew it properly before swallowing so that happens so we get a little pressure going up pay attention big man and then the food goes up free then reward again pressure goes down nice and slow free and then reward good boy pressure goes up free he’s doing really well pressure goes down i’m gonna see if he can do this one without the help of the food free good boy let’s try the sit without the help of the food sometimes when i’m doing the sit he coughed up another piece sometimes when i’m doing the sit without the help of the food i’m going to help with my body language a little bit so i’m going to stand up i can even do a little bit of encouragement like come on you can do it come on come on buddy buddy buddy buddy come on come on free good job very nice very nice he’s a really good smart puppy again pressure down nice and slowly free good boy and then we’re going to take them back up nice slow steady pressure come on buddy come on i’m helping them with the food this time free good now i’m going to do a little bit more but kind of all over the place so i’m going to guide them off free reward them there i’m going to guide them into the sit again free reward them there guide them back onto the bed free reward them there and something i like to get them comfortable with as well is using my foot to apply pressure on the leash and this is so i don’t have to bend over so much if i’m working larger dogs or older dogs so i’m going to take my foot and i’m going to do slow pressure nice and easy same as if i was using my hand and then i’m going to help with the food once they lay down free reward i’m going to bring them back up she did it on his own beautiful bring my foot up again nice and slow slow steady pressure and doing slow movements in the beginning with any sort of exercise that involves prep free with any sort of exercise that involves pressure it’s going to help the dog out because again we want to minimize the stress come on buddy and help him back up come on and be patient with this exercise don’t rush it we want to take our time we want to make sure he’s getting tired let’s bring him back up good and then again i’m going to do my foot bring the foot up slow steady pressure and then reward very nice good boy welcome back to another episode today we are going to start introducing the verbal command to our dogs now if you’ve been following my channel you’ve seen this in a few of the other ones and it’s something i talk about a lot and it’s known as pairing or also known as overshadowing this is the most common mistake that most people make when they start to give their dog the verbal command so what they do is they say the verbal command at the exact same time they’re given the physical cue for example they go sit or down you may have done that yourself now it’s been scientifically proven that if you pair your physical with your verbal the physical will override the verbal again it’s known as overshadowing so if two things are presented to a dog at one time whichever of those two is more relevant to the dog is going to be what they focus on and they’re going to completely ignore the other one and our dogs notice physical movements way more or much easier than our verbals so if you want your dog to know the verbal command this is very important the verbal command must come before the physical cue so instead of saying sit as we lift or down as we point or heal doesn’t matter we have to say that verbal before the physical it has to be a predictable pattern this is the same with our markers remember our markers we say yes then we reward we say free or whatever word you choose then we give that cue so with our commands we say sit then we lift our hands down then we present the cue if you are pairing it together your dog’s not going to learn now i have come across people where they taught their dog the verbal command even though they were pairing you might wonder well how are they able to do that if science has proven that you have to say the verbal before the physical cue it’s simple they think their dog already knows it on the verbal command so they look at their dog and they go sit the dog doesn’t sit and then they go sit then the dog sits so the dog was learning the verbal command because it actually preceded the physical cue even though they didn’t know they were doing it that way so you want to be aware of this it should be broken down into four parts command motivate mark reward on a timeline command comes first then the physical cue comes next then the marker or you can give your dog the primary within a second i’ve talked about this as well and then if you use the marker then you follow it up with the primary so we’re going to be demonstrating with little spock here he just got back from the vet clinic and he doesn’t like car rides so he drooled a little bit but he’s feeling better now so we’re going to start doing the commands and i’m going to have you focus on one thing at a time and then i’m going to let you know what to focus on after we do each part so it’s going to be broken down in a way that should be pretty easy to follow so what i want you to pay attention is notice how i say the command then i do the q i just want you to pay attention to that and i’m going to go through a few commands with spock here now the physical cue that i’m going to be using is either going to be luring or i might be using the leash pressure cue as well i like to go back and forth between the two and we’re going to do multiple different commands to make it as interesting as possible so we’re going to get started right now good boy so we give them a treat get him started now notice i’m walking backwards he’s trying to get the food i say sit then i lift free then i move sit then i lift and i drop the piece free then i move good boy even from right here i can give him the climb command so i go climb then the q now what helps a lot of people is to say what you’re doing when you do it so what i mean by that is say the command and then say what you’re doing so we can use the word now for example so i can go down now free reward come now free reward spin now free reward climb now free reward off now free reward now pay attention to when i’m saying the marker i say the marker the moment he completes the behavior i’m trying to pinpoint the completion of the behavior down now free reward off now free reward i can use the leash pressure as well now remember when we’re using the leash it’s not really pressure it’s more like a leash cue we’re using the leash to help guide our dog into the position so for example if i’m using my foot i’m not stepping on the leash and forcing him into the down position i’m using it as a queue so sit now free reward also right there i said free and that’s the terminal marker he’s conditioned to it so he knows knows that free means release and reward when we’re first teaching the terminal marker free we move back encouraging the dog to come get it so they understand that concept but once your dog’s conditioned to it you can do something like this down cue free and just hand it to him because he knows it means release and reward so if he wants to get up after he gets the treat he can do that climb then the queue and i did not mark that one that’s okay sit then the queue notice the leash didn’t get tight when i use the cube because it’s a q oops let’s get that back to you big guy sit q free reward down then the q oh free i didn’t have to step on it it’s not force the more we can communicate with our dog the more techniques we have to communicate with our dog the faster they’re going to learn and the stronger the relationship is going to be you don’t want to ignore a technique as valuable as leash pressure simply because you think it’s force when it’s not if you notice i’m not using force to get him to do these things it’s just a cue sometimes i don’t even have to place my foot on the leash because the dog has learned the process of going with that pressure so we’re going to do a couple more and this is another big question i’m asked is sit when i’m training my dog free when i’m training my dog am i just doing sitting down over and over again no because that would be kind of boring we want to make it fun so we want to do as many different things as possible when i’m doing a session with a dog i’m doing everything trying to make it fun so we’re going to incorporate these cones as well it’s in one of my other videos and that’s the around command which helps with certain sports but it’s also fun just to work with the dog to give them more awareness of their own body so now i’m not going to say now anymore but when you’re first starting say now after you say the command will help you with your timing because again your mind and your body want to move at the exact same time he’s trying to offer up behaviors i mean think about it however old you are your entire life you’ve been pairing your physical with your verbal and now i’m telling you not to do something you’ve been practicing your entire life for example when you go to talk to your friends let’s say you’re asking to go to movies you go hey guys you want to go to the movies nobody does this hey guys you want to go to movies it’s not it’s not how we operate so you have to go against what you’ve been practicing your whole life so we’re going to do a couple more come then the queue free then the reward around then the queue free good and sometimes i just like to have them go around these mark and reward good boy very nice good job backwards follow exercise i might throw that in giving them some rewards center we’re going to throw the center command in boom and now let’s walk and have them enjoy that center position see if we could get a little bit of that prancing by holding the food slightly higher sometimes you can get that prance now we can throw in a down then the queue free reward good spin cue free reward heal queue whoa ho ho i messed up come on buddy we’re this way now i got them in heel position i can give them lots of rewards for maintaining that sit then the queue down cue free reward all done buddy and when we finish a session sometimes it’s nice to let them know that you’re done and if you do it like this if you do it correctly you’re gonna find that your dog is going to start beating you into the positions before you give that physical cue so you’ll be standing there and you got your dog motivated ready to learn and you say down and your dog goes down before you present the physical cue boom now you know you have it on verbal but if you don’t do it this way if you go sit down if you do that your dog will never learn the verbal command and you will always have to use the physical cue so one of the things i like to do to test how good the dog knows the verbal command is i will place them on a climb platform climb and then he’s not at this point but i would stand looking away and i give the dog the commands and i want to see if the dog can perform the commands without me actually presenting a physical cue and i’m going to give you a quick little demonstration with my dog ari down stand sit spin center free yay [Music] and remember it goes command motivate mark reward and each one has to be separated by a split second on the timeline they can’t be together so we say down then we cue our dog free and then we reward climb then the queue free then the reward off then the queue free reward spin then the queue free reward center then the queue [Music] free reward heal then the queue free a little early on the free there then reward down then the queue free reward stand and the queue free reward sit then the queue free reward set cue free reward you see how it’s separated if you had a timeline you’d see the command down then you’d see the physical key would be next then the marker free and then the reward so each one is separated what most people do the most common mistake is people pair they’re physical with their verbal they pair the command and motivate they go down right and then they say free and they reward at the exact same time we want to make sure that we separate it because if we do it incorrectly it still almost looks like we’re doing it correct so for example this is incorrect climb free off free and that’s what most people do b all right so i’m gonna go back to doing it correctly down two three reward sit cue free reward spin cue free reward sit cue heel cue free reward climb q and remember i’m not worried about perfect precision since it’s service dog training not competition obedience off cue free reward center cue free reward down cue free reward set cue free reward good girl spin cue free reward climb cue free now when we first want to start naming it we put our dog in the sit position and we say come and then we go right back into the backwards follow exercise and always stopping the backwards follow exercise by bringing our dog back into a sit so then we can take a little step back hands down come cue the dog good nice job get them used to walking with the leash attached too unless you’re training inside but a lot of times i like to have the leash just in case i need it again we stop we lift up yes reward build a little bit more distance come then the queue good very nice excellent my little man come on buddy don’t get distracted none of that add kicking in and then again we stop lift up yes reward build a little more distance come then the q good so you see everything has the exact same process right we teach the physical then we name it build a little more distance come then the q good boy and if you’re doing competitive obedience this is going to be the same so if you’re working with a young german shepherd or dutch shepherd or malinois or something like that we can place them into the position call them to us come sometimes i might move a little faster if i want to increase the dog’s speed free good nice job buddy nice job place them back into the sit build a little bit of distance and notice i’m not using the actual sit command we’re just using physical cues at this part but then the command for the come so if he breaks it it’s not a big deal come then the queue good boy and you’re going to quickly see that you will say come and your dog is going to start running directly to you to get into that sit front position in order to get that reward and we just keep doing it we start to make our physical cue less and less as we call the dog when they start to understand it then i start i may use the physical cue if i think the dog needs it so if i’m walking backwards or rather if i’m standing there and i say come and my dog starts to come to me and i notice my dog looks like she or he is going to go to the right side of the left side i might adjust and help them right or i might call them and just do a little bit of a cue but we want to get to the point where we can call our dog just stand there and they’ll come directly into the sit front position if you do this correctly you’ll be able to get to that point in your training now let me show you how to do this with the leash pressure so very similar we’re going to take our dog swing our dog around place our dog into the sit get at the end of our leash come and then we’re going to guide our dog with the leash good boy got him where we want him yes and then reward and you could determine you get to determine the level of precision with your obedience if you’re just doing basic pet training so again come i can guide him with the leash and i can reward him come on buddy chew your food little man i can just reward him when he comes to me whatever you want the end pitcher to look like some people are okay with the dog just running into their area so you match whatever it is that you want from your dog okay so again we place them into this set and i’m just using the leash very similar to how we did it using the reward based training keep my hands down come then i guide my dog good boy very nice and then place the dog into a sit yes and then reward sit as i step away come and keep good and then let’s bring it back up yes and then reward that’s going to be how we’re going to teach that come when called climb using reward-based training or pressure-based training both of them work use the one that works best for you and your dog sit repeat the sick command take a step away build a little bit of distance come and then use the cue yes reward come and then right back so she’s going to my hand so i’m not going to reward her there bring my hands behind my back if i need to yes sit come yes good girl sit build a little more distance come come yes reward and each time break we’re trying to place our dog in the best position possible and every time i’m doing this i’m looking more towards competitive obedience you’re not competing with your dog you don’t need them to be in perfect position that i’m demonstrating here if you want if you’re happy with your dog simply coming to you to get a reward then just do that gum yeah nice job and you can give them the reward you can make it as formal or as informal as you would like it to be free good girl come then i give the key and i walk backwards come then the queue come then the queue and once my dog gets better at that what i want to do is i want to start building distance i like to use the climb again it’s one of the easier commands to reinforce the stay so just to make it easier on the dog and easier on the training process the more successful your dog is the faster they’re going to learn so now i just create a little bit of distance and i do the exact same thing hands down at my side to kind of give them that normal picture come then the q yes reward climb i’m going to guide them back on the climb and all i’m going to do is i’m going to add a little bit more distance same thing hands down at the side come then the queue yes rework climb can i guide him back onto the climb now this time i’m gonna see how he’s gonna do if i don’t bring in my hands to help him out i’m gonna stand right here come he needs a little bit of help yes reward so we can help them when we think that they need help or you can see that they need help but you can see all we’re doing fine because we’re building business by showing the dog the picture they already understand come yes and come you got a little confused there it’s okay come then the queue yes from the reward come and the queue yes then the reward come and then just like the other dogs will build a little bit of distance come thank you it’s not always going to be perfect make sure you adjust if your dog makes mistakes it’s no big deal come good free all right in today’s video we’re going to be introducing the stay command remember i do not use the word stay once i place a dog into a verbal commanded position it is required that they maintain that position all right and it’s going to be very simple what we’re going to do is we’re going to command her onto the position i always start with the climb command when i’m first teaching a state each climb command or each state command rather has a different level of difficulty than the other one so for example the climb command for me in my experience is the easiest day to teach then the next one would be the down then after that maybe the sit and then the stand stay or the heel stay or the center stay they become more difficult depending on what exercise we’re doing so i always like to start with the climb stay the higher the climb is the easier it is for the dog to understand that that’s the position you want them to maintain so this is how i’m going to do it and i do the same way with every single stay command that i’m teaching the dog i place them in the position i use my continuation marker if we’re rewarding the behavior because i want them to continue the exercise so in her case it’s going to be the yes word then i’m going to walk away as long as the dog stays in the position i’m going to reinforce it by saying yes and rewarding the dog with a piece of food so instead of saying stay a bunch of times as i walk away i’m gonna walk away casually or how i would if i was normally walking and then i’m gonna go back and reward the dog by using my continuation marker you’ll see exactly what i mean if my dog or if harley breaks the position i say one no i calmly walk back to her she bumped the the camera i say one no i calmly walk back to her i grab the leash and i place her back on the climb stay and i will do this as many times as it takes when we’re doing this we want to make sure that we’re not yelling we’re not getting excited we’re not running towards a dog i want to make sure that my dog is at a clear mental state i don’t want them to be startled by what i’m doing so i want to make sure it’s a very calm relaxed training session and that’s going to help them learn more quickly so you’ll see exactly what i mean right now when i started with harley and i’ve never done a stay with her yet so harley come here baby on it yay very nice so what i’m going to do is i’m going to tell her klein then the q yes so i use yes this time and not free so she maintains it yes i’m gonna reward her by using continuation marker no so there’s my one note i grab the leash i bring her back on good girl now when the dog breaks the position and i put them back on i don’t reward them right away i want to wait a few seconds before i reward them like i just now did because if you reward them right away some dogs will learn break the position yes get back on get a treat break the position get placed back on get a treat so i don’t know so i don’t want to reward him right away meaning like right now i wouldn’t want to reward her because then she might offer up the mistake of breaking the position in order to get rewarded so you see what i’m doing i’m saying no as she breaks the position calmly grabbing the leash bringing her back on good girl letting her know she’s doing it correctly if i have her stain yes then i can use my continuation marker and reward no one know when she makes a mistake bring her back on good girl when i know i also like to no and you’re going to have it where they’re going to break a few times and i also like to do it when i drop the leash yes then i reward [Music] yes no a no can override a yes so if you say no if you say yes and your dog breaks the position don’t reward them then no and the reason why i like to do it this way is i like the dog to learn no their best course of action when they break a position yes oh see i rewarded too early i got distracted talking so don’t don’t make that mistake but um i want the dog to learn when i say no yes their best course of action is to either stop what they’re doing or go back to the previous position yes good girl so she’s already starting to figure it out yes no no [Music] no and you should sound like a broken record when you say no it should sound the same just like everything else we want our words to be as consistent as possible yes good girl very nice now good the most important thing no with dog training is clear communication as well as trust yes she shouldn’t be afraid of me when i say the word no all it is no it’s just letting her know i’m gonna come back and i’m going to place her back in the position she was just in yes very nice yes good girl no also notice i don’t repeat the word no i don’t say no no no a bunch of times because i want the dog to know that when i say no i’m pinpointing a moment in time when the dog has made a mistake if i keep saying the word then what am i pinpointing if the dog breaks the position and i say no and the dog tries to correct themselves and i say no again i’m like well that’s incorrect and they try this no no no ah and they become stressed out we want to make sure that we say it yes the moment they make one mistake and then we help them fix that mistake yes no boom now she’s starting to go back into the position and that’s exactly what we want good girl very nice good job yes that’s my good sweet girl and again each time i walk away nope and this is all about showing her a very very clear picture we got the leash on her you get that fixed yes good girl it looks like she has a little bandana on are not bandana yes one of those little workout straps good girl no good yes yes same thing with the yes when i’m walking away i like to say yes then i turn and i come back and i reward the dog i don’t want to get into a habit of walking towards the dog and saying yes i don’t want to do this i don’t want to go yes because me turning then becomes the cue i want my marker to be the indicator yes that the behavior is correct and then i want back and reward no all right so she’s starting to figure out that she needs to fix herself yes after i say the word no and you see this isn’t creating any stress there’s no confusion there’s no anxiety yes she knows exactly now not exactly but she’s getting there what i want her to do and it’s as simple as her yes maintaining that position and i’m just gonna keep rewarding her for holding that position no good girl yes so once i have this down and she knows that she needs to maintain this position then i would take the stay to the next exercise which would be the down once i get the down really nice the next one i would do is to sit so on and so forth we want to go through each commanded exercise and because yes she starts to understand the concept on the first exercise it makes the more difficult stays easier to teach because you’ve already laid the foundation yes with the climb stay so again all done hold on baby break come on come back get me now you want to stay there look how good it works come on baby good girl very nice so those are the things you want to keep in mind with this exercise you want to make sure your dog knows a continuation marker you want to make sure you can get them back into the commanding position by using the leash and then you want to just be very calm relaxed use you can use whatever word you like if you don’t like to say the word no some people say wrong some people say incorrect some people say um uh-uh or whatever it is as long as you’re consistent with that sound then it should be pretty easy for your dog to learn what it is you want them to do so that’s going to be our stay command the next portion of the training is really simple and it’s a lot of fun we’re going to place a harness on our dogs and we’re going to allow them to pull and explore their environment this is a very important step in the training process because if we take our dogs out the very first time and we expect them to walk nicely on a loose leash there’s going to be more of a battle because you’re going to be competing up against all these other distractions within the environment so we want to go out there we want to let our dogs pull we want to let them get that out of their system so then the obedience portion of the training is going to be that much easier all right now that we’ve given him some time to explore the neighborhood what i’m going to be doing in this step is simply getting him to respond to the leash pressure now that we’re in the front and we’re walking around the neighborhood so i have the harness in case he does try to pull but the goal is i want him to respond to the pressure that i place on the leash that’s attached to his collar so i’m going to start to pull a little bit once he responds and turns my way i’m going to mark in reward [Music] good boy very good and again all i want him to do is to respond to the pressure on the leash so i pull free good and i’m using his terminal marker free good job buddy very good and so now you can already see he’s very focused on me he’s had a time to explore the neighborhood so now it’s not this crazy new exciting thing that’s one of the biggest issues that people run into they start to work with their dog then they take their dog out into an environment with a ton of distractions and then they wonder why their dog’s not listening we have to build the dog up so by exposing them to the environment giving them an opportunity to see it is going to make it to where it’s not so exciting that they’re going crazy when you’re trying to do the training and it’s going to make this part much easier so again all we’re doing on this part is we’re out in front and we’re just getting them to respond to the pressure on the leash once he responds we mark in reward good boy free good and he’s kind of finding the heel position now on his own which is excellent so during this step your main goal is to get your dog to respond to the pressure on the leash and to get the focus from your dog once you do that we’re going to take this skill on an actual walk so let’s go ahead and do that right now all right now we got cash here and we’re ready to take him on a walk i’m going to say heal then i’m going to step if he starts to pull i’m going to stop him with the harness first then i’m going to use the leash pressure to guide him back into the correct position this is especially helpful for those dogs that really like to pull because it’s going to help prevent them from pulling too hard on their neck so we’re using the harness again to stop them from moving forward then we use the leash pressure with the collar to guide them back into the correct position then we mark and reward make sure the pressure on the harness starts first we’re actually teaching them that the pressure from the harness is going to predict the pressure from the collar so eventually the dog is going to respond on just the harness alone so if you wanted to continue to walk your dog on a harness and not a collar you’d be able to do that after teaching him this technique so again we’re gonna bring him back into the heel position good boy tell him to sit and then we’re gonna say heal and off we go again if he goes ahead of me which he’s not doing yet he’s doing well stop him with the harness bring him back good boy and then he’s back in position so now i’m going to demonstrate just how it’s going to look if i was out here training him by myself so keep in mind the details that i was explaining earlier so we’re going to walk free good boy buddy nice job very good if he’s not paying attention i’m also going to sneak out of heel position there’s the pressure good good boy very nice so you can see this doesn’t create any sort of stress it’s a very easy very comfortable walk for the dog there’s the pressure up see now he’s already responding to just the pressure on the harness and that’s really what i want to see while i’m doing this step if you don’t want sit so what this is doing it’s actually teaching him not to pull while he has a harness on and again i use this technique for dogs that really pull a lot and pull very hard because i don’t want them to choke themselves however if you want your dog to pull on a harness let’s say you’re exercising your dog or you’re running your dog whatever and you want him to pull then you don’t want to do this because it’s actually teaching him not to pull even with the harness so if you want your dog to pull when they have a harness then you’re going to do this exact same step but you’re just going to use the collar you’re not going to use the harness the way that i’m using it all right so let’s go right back into it heel and then we step good boy buddy good boy yes good job my little man and if he’s doing well if he’s maintaining position yes i can mark and reward him right here good very good buddy very good yes good job sit yes and the nice thing is if you teach your dog leash pressure when you take your dog on a walk you can start implementing basic obedience as well so i could even tell him to down then do the cue with the leash pressure yes no so he broke the position so i said one no use the leash pressure put him back in the position no good boy sit yes nice job and then we’re gonna step right back out on the walk hey up here heel then we step good boy very good and if he’s doing well again we can huh oh good job you got me buddy that’s what i want i want the dog to to catch me trying to sneak out of the heel position we always want to make training fun and we want to make it a game yes good boy so again both are nice and loose good boy oh he sees a birdie good moe buddy once he realized he wasn’t able to get to the bird he knew he had to respond to the leash pressure so he turned around and went back into the correct position if you go to apply pressure and your dog doesn’t turn around then you can correct for that meaning if i pull on the leash and he’s not responding to it i could say no pop the leash and then apply the leash pressure again he doesn’t really need that so i’m not doing that we got a cat up ahead so i’m curious if he’s gonna respond to the cat all right here we go heel and then we step again making sure we say heel before we step if he goes ahead the pressure on the harness first good boy bring him back in the heel and then we go back into the walk excellent nice job buddy very good so there we go and bring them back all right yes good boy very good sit heel good boy excellent work buddy good again he’s responding with just the harness now at this point sit good job down yes no so he broke the position so one no and then i place him back into the position and so he’s distracted right now it’s just a matter of waiting them out a lot of times if the dog doesn’t do what the person wants right away then they get excited or they start repeating the command or they get frustrated you just wait them out sit and then we bring them back up heel and then we step good boy so even with those distractions he still did pretty good here’s the pressure on the harness good and we bring him back all right nice job excellent all right so we’re gonna keep doing this for maybe another five to ten minutes and then i’m gonna switch to the next step now that he’s been doing a really nice job walking on a loose leash with the assistance of the harness now i’m ready for the next step we could take the harness off entirely i’m not too worried about that right now basically i’m going to be doing exactly what i was doing before but now i’m just going to be using the leash with the martingale collar when he starts to go ahead of me we have two options we can say their condition correction so a no like i was using earlier when he broke the down stay or we can recommand the position we would like the dog to be in so he goes ahead of us we can say heal and we can bring him back praise and reward them or he goes ahead of us and we can say no or or phooey or wrong and bring them back whatever you want to do it really doesn’t matter to the dog because it’s literally the exact same thing to the dog we’re saying a word then we’re reinforcing what we’re expecting our dog to do so pick and choose which one you feel most comfortable with and go from there what i’m going to be doing with him is i’m going to be saying no i’m going to keep it nice and simple all right so we’re going to start and we’re going to say heal and then we’re gonna step if he’s doing well good boy nice job yes mark and reward and again this is right after walking him with the harness good and yes when they look up at me i like to mark and reward that if they get distracted oh i got you i make it a game well i’m gonna get you again very nice buddy yes we always like i said i can’t stress it enough we always want to make it fun and interesting for our dog so he’s doing very well if he looks up at me yes i could help him out by making some silly noises but that’s just showing him hey if you look at me i’m going to pay you for it and if they look at us they’re less likely to fall out of heel position oh i got you again and he’s a goofy lap puppy good boy yes and like i said the nice thing about implementing leash pressure is while we’re on a walk with our dog good yes we can start implementing commands every time i take a dog on a walk i don’t just take the dog on the walk i like to reinforce everything that i’ve been teaching the dog while at home sit so we can use the sit we can keep them in a sit stay if we want we can call them to us so i can go come bring them to me sit that wasn’t the best come but we’ll take it heel step back off on the walk good job so it’s not just me walking on my phone talking to my friend not paying attention to my dog we’re actually hanging out together we’re communicating with one another and we’re working together on the same team he’s starting to go ahead oh he got me before i even applied the pressure and that’s what we want we wanted to start noticing if we sneak out of heel position good yes excellent nice job buddy very good and so like i said he’s already doing no good boy so i’m gonna start adding that no i haven’t been doing that no then we good and he’s responding to just the no excellent in order for your dog to respond to the no you have to make sure that no comes before you apply pressure excellent work cash very nice so you can see how loose the leash is another common mistake that people make is the dog will start to go forward slowly and the human keeps walking forward the moment i notice the dog is not paying attention to me no i walk out of their heel position i say no then i reinforce what i’m asking the dog to do and again we have to make sure our no comes before we apply the pressure no so there we go i said the no i bring them back and you see when i say no he’s not worried that i’m saying the word no because he doesn’t know what no means in the dictionary he doesn’t have a dictionary that he’s looking at it just means whatever it predicts so in this situation the no predicts no me going yeah come on buddy right back here so it doesn’t mean anything bad to him sit good boy very nice heel and then we step so you can see just by working with him and communicating to him clearly we’re able to show him what we want no and what we expect from him without creating any sort of conflict or avoidance it’s a very easy simple way to teach our dogs so again they go ahead no then we apply the pressure we bring them back come on buddy you gotta itch you gotta itchy and then we go right back into the walk if you have a dog that sit continues to go ahead and you’ve done hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of these and he continues to go ahead and pull you can give your dog a leash pop or a correction for going ahead so i’m going to show you example of what it would look like and the correction level will change according to the dog so some dogs may need a slightly higher correction some dogs a lower correction so i’m going to demonstrate with him and he’s a very compliant dog so this isn’t really going to be a correction but i just want you to see what i mean heel and then we step so if he goes ahead i go no pop and then i bring him back good boy so you see it’s a little snap gives the dog a quick correction then we go right back into the walk and we’re having a good time sit good job buddy heel the main thing is make sure you guys are patient with this one it could take a lot of reps and you may find yourself walking with your dog on the harness for a week or so before transitioning to just the leash it’s really going to depend on your timing and of course the level of compliancy and intelligence and motivation that your dog has remember the science is always the same what varies between each dogs are going to be things like their intelligence and their motivation their temperament their disposition and that’s where the art of dog training comes in and since we’re on the subject it’s important to mention that each dog in training should be in one of three stages for each command first stage is when the dog still needs the physical cue to complete the behavior basically the dog is still not able to do the behavior on the command alone if you’re on this stage then you’re still on continual reinforcement the next stage is when your dog is able to do the behavior on the command alone when you first enter this stage you’ll do one of two things when your dog does the commanded behavior either you’ll still mark in reward or you’ll give your dog verbal praise such as good boy nice job after doing this for a few weeks you’ll move on to the final stage of rewards for each correct behavior you’ll do one of three options either you’ll mark in reward you’ll give verbal praise or you won’t say anything at all no reward this is the goal for each command that your dog can perform the requested commands but doesn’t always need to be rewarded for each correct repetition part of being a dog owner is knowing what to do in any situation this includes accidents or unforeseen illnesses for us dog lovers dogs are not just our pets their family and we want to be able to provide the best care possible for them so they can live a long and happy life if you’re like me then having pet insurance for your dogs is a must i personally use and trust prudent pet insurance for all my dogs as prudent pets says when it comes to your pet’s well-being you shouldn’t have to check with your bank account first with prudent pet you can customize the plan to your pets need they are rated number one pet insurance on trust pilot they have unlimited 24 7 veterinarian chat on all policies they have lightning fast claims processing powered by ai of course with a final human check and they have a 30-day money-back guarantee prudent pet is the ultimate option to make sure your four-legged family member is covered and protected plus if you sign up through my link you’ll get five percent off in today’s video we’ll be going over my obedience and behavioral modification flow chart well it’s not a flow chart in the traditional sense but it is a step-by-step process that will help give you a very clear picture of what you need to do regardless of the obedience or behavioral issue that you’re running into before moving forward let’s quickly discuss the meaning behind some of the words i’ll be using in this video if i say anything about corrections i’m referring to a correction implemented with a training collar such as a leash pop on a martingale or prong collar or a stimulation from a remote training collar yes equals reward which is positive reinforcement free equals release and reward again positive reinforcement wrong equals leash pressure negative reinforcement no equals a correction positive punishment and break just equals a release now let’s check out the flow chart so you understand how it works and where to get access to it first you can find the link to the chart in the description of this video just click on the link next to obedience and behavioral modification flow chart the other option is through my website nateshomer.com on the homepage you’ll see a logo with the words dog training in bold with obedience and behavioral modification training plan click here below it when you click on that link it’ll take you to the flow chart now if you notice you’ll see questions that are in bold font these refer to the possible issues that you may be having you’ll also see option one and option two underlined option one will be for those of you that prefer not to give your dog any kind of correction for option two we’ll be implementing a correction to stop the undesired behavior when it comes to working with our dogs we have two main issues to work through obedience issues and behavioral issues we’ll start with behavioral issues the first one is your dog practicing a dangerous or destructive behavior if yes then we have two options option one prevent the dog from practicing the behavior meaning you have to either put up some sort of boundary or barrier or you have to stop the dog every time they do the behavior until they eventually stop trying for example if your dog chews on furniture you either have to stop the dog every time they chew on the furniture or you can prevent the dog from even getting to the furniture in addition you could use something like dogs bitter apple no chew spray but i prefer to go with option two which is you can use a correction immediately to stop dangerous or destructive behaviors for example if your dog digs then you can correct that behavior out of your dog’s repertoire but you have to be sure to correct your dog when they are digging not hours after the hole has already been dug next is the behavior based on fear if yes then you’ll want to implement counter conditioning and desensitization click on that blue link to learn how is the behavior based on aggression aggression is a very complicated issue so i made a video dedicated to that subject just click on the video link to see that episode is it a behavior you just don’t want the dog to perform such as jumping up on furniture or going into an unauthorized room such as a baby’s room or an office if yes then have you already trained your dog and conditioned them to the continuation and terminal marker if not watch the two videos below and teach your dog the markers and don’t just skip to the last step if you want to be successful with your dog then it’s essential to make sure that you do the required training for each step of the training process here’s an analogy to put it into perspective if you stepped on glass and cut your foot open you wouldn’t just put a band-aid on it and call it a day no you would remove the glass clean and stitch the wound and then you would put on the bandage it’s the same when we’re working with our dogs we have to be sure to complete each step before moving on to the next one now if your dog is already conditioned to the markers or after you’ve taught your dog the markers then we can move on to the next step does the dog know and understand how to follow a lure if yes move on to the next question if no then watch the three videos below and teach your dog how to effectively follow allure once that’s completed does your dog know and understand leash pressure if yes move on to the next question if not then watch these two videos and teach your dog leash pressure before moving on you want to make sure that your dog is so conditioned to the leash pressure that your dog will respond before there is any pressure on the leash this is why i often say that it should be called a leash cue instead check out this video i made for a client a few months back to see what i mean all right so basically what i was telling you guys about what we’re having our session is the telegraphing or letting your dog know what you’re about to do so watch for example how i do the covenant call using the leash pressure i start to walk out the leash see that cues him to come and fall same thing when i start to lift up you see how he’s doing it before okay now he’s a little slow on that one but watch how i walk up the leash this is letting him know i’m about to do the leash pressure just like lifting my foot up is letting him know i’m about to do the leash pressure same thing when i walk back slowly walking up the leash good to cue him on what i want him to do so by telegraphing the leash pressure it makes it much easier for your dog to learn and respond correctly to that pressure this is how i like a dog to respond to the leash pressure before i start correcting them for refusing to respond to the leash pressure one more time if it’s further down i’m lifting my leg up the dog sees that and responds i start walking up the leash and walking towards the dog to get him to sit walking back and walking up the leash to come to me so super simple has a dog been taught that the behavior is not okay with leash pressure if not then watch the three videos below to learn how if yes then you can implement either option one or two option one continue using leash pressure to prevent the dog from practicing the behavior or prevent the possibility of the dog practicing the behavior option two you can use corrections to stop these behaviors for example if your dog jumps on the sofa the moment they jump on the sofa you would say no and then you would correct your dog with the training collar after the correction you will give the command you want your dog to perform such as off if your dog still doesn’t perform the behavior you will then use leash pressure to remove the dog from the couch now for obedience issues the first and most common is your dog refusing to perform a commanded behavior if yes then does the dog know his continuation in terminal marker if not then watch these videos if yes does the dog know and understand how to follow allure if not then watch these videos if yes then does your dog know and understand leash pressure if not watch these videos if yes then have you taught your dog the verbal command by saying the command first and then presenting the physical cue meaning your dog will perform the behavior on the verbal command alone and you no longer have to assist with the physical cue if not then watch these videos if yes then move on to option one or option two option one when the dog chooses not to perform the command within the first second say wrong then use the leash pressure to make the dog comply option two if you give your dog a command and they choose not to perform that command the moment they decide they aren’t going to execute the command you will say no and then you will correct your dog with the training collar after the correction you will give the command to your dog again if your dog still doesn’t perform the behavior you will then use the leash pressure or luring to place your dog into that position and last but not least does your dog refuse to stay in a commanded stay if yes then does the dog know his continuation and terminal marker if not watch these videos if yes does the dog know and understand how to follow allure if not watch these videos if yes then does the dog know and understand leash pressure if not watch these videos if yes then have you taught the verbal command for the position the dog is in such as a sit stay the dog must know the sit command on the verbal sit by saying the command first and then presenting the physical cue meaning your dog will perform the behavior on the verbal command alone and you no longer have to assist the dog with the physical cue if not then watch these videos if yes then has the dog been taught that breaking the stay is not allowed with leash pressure if not then watch these videos if yes then if your dog breaks a stay and you say wrong does your dog freeze in place or go back to the previous position if not then continue the last step until your dog does if yes then you move on to option one or option two option one when your dog breaks the position you will calmly say wrong casually walk to your dog grab the leash and use the leash pressure to place your dog back into the position that was just broken once your dog is back into the desired position you will praise and pet your dog petting is optional but don’t give your dog a treat or toy reward the reason for this is that some dogs will break the position on purpose so they can get the reward when placed back into the state position option two when your dog breaks the position you will say no but instead of using leash pressure you’ll give your dog a correction with the training collar even if the dog goes back into the position on their own after you give the physical correction you will then command your dog back into the position that was just broken if your dog fails to do it on their own after the correction you will assist them with the leash pressure or luring you don’t want to continue to correct a dog for the same mistake over and over again once your dog is back into the desired position you will praise and pet your dog again petting is optional but just like last time don’t give your dog a toy or a treat reward the reason for this is that some dogs will break the position on purpose so they can get the reward when placed back into the stay command i hope everyone enjoys today’s video and it proves to be helpful let me know what you think about it in the comments below if you have any questions feel free to ask those in the comment section as well if you want to support the channel you can by liking subscribing becoming a patreon or shopping at my online store all the links will be in the description of this video and last but not least if you need one on one help i do provide zoom training sessions you can find the information for that in the description as well thanks again and i will see everyone in next week’s video [Music] you …

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